The Albemarle of Old

The settlement of Piedmont was long delayed. As the water courses were the natural arteries of travel, civilization at first clung to the streams and bays of the lower country. For more than a century the Commonwealth had no town of importance, and even in the tide-water counties, where rich plantations stretched for miles along the banks of creek and river, roads into the interior were few and primitive. Under these conditions, the falls and rapids of the upper streams were effectual barriers to colonization.

Of the wanderers who first drifted to our hills, we have no more record than of the wild fowl which at the that time darkened our waters. Probably, the especially daring trapper, or the fugative from justice, reached the high lands at an early date, but it was not until 1717 that white men made a recorded passage of the Blue Ridge. The records of Governor Spottiswoode's gay and chivalrous company show that these explorers followed the valley of the Rapidan, thus passing to the north of Albemarle. It was probably by ascending the head-waters of the Rivanna that they reached Swift Run Gap, in Greene County, by which they descended into the Valley.

After this expedition, the tide of population set rapidly westward, and adventurers and frontiersmen were soon penetrating the dense forest tracts of upper Virginia. The first patents within the present boundaries of Albemarle were made in 1727, hut before this the region had been entered, up the streams of the South Anna, the James, the Rivanna and the hardware, and the log hut of the hunter had begun to rise in sheltered hollows or beside bold springs.

The life of these early comers was similar to that of the frontiersmen of other States. The streams swarmed with fish of many kinds, including shad and herring in their season; water-fowl, wild tur- keys, pigeons and (loves were incredibly plentiful, and deer, elk and bear were abundant. From the buffalo trails which crossed the Blue Ridge at Simon s Gap, Jarman s Gap, Beagle s Gap and Rock- fish, we can infer that these creatures had formerly been numerous, and that they perhaps were still to be met with. Dr. Edgar Woods, in his valuable History of Albemarle, calls attention to the many local names Turkey Run. Buck Mountain, Buffalo Meadow, Beaver Dam, Bear Creek, Pidgeon Top, Elk Run, etc. which hear witness to this profusion of animal life. Edgehill Mountain was formerly known as Wolf Trap Mountain, from a large pit near the mountain s top, on the farm of Elisha Thurman, which was used for this purpose.

In a community where money was rarely handled, and the recognized mediums of exchange were tobacco and skins, hunting was regarded as a profession requiring great skill. Kercheval tells us that:

Miss Margaret Rogers, of Greenwood, gives this incident, which she heard irorn her uncle, Mr. Wm Wallace:

One of the old-time mountaineers, who was a famous hunter, was never known to purchase bullets for his rifle, or lead for casting them. When questioned, he was evasive, but at length in confidence he told Mr. Wallace that he dug all the lead he wanted from the mountain-side, "as his father had, fore him." In proof of this assertion, on a later visit to civilization, he brought with him a chunk of lead the size of a man's hand and the thickness of his finger, and showing it of the axe with which it evidently had been chopped He intimated that he would bequeath to Mr. Wallace of this vein, but at his death nothing could be his relatives concerning it.

During the early years of the County, the scalps of wolves were reported in large numbers. One hundred and forty pounds of tobacco were allowed for the scalp of an old wolf, and seventy-five for that of a young one, that is, one under six months Wolves old. Later, the awards were made in money. These reports are preserved in the County records, and continue with more or less regularity down to 1849, when Isaac W. Garth was awarded twelve dollars for killing an old wolf. Jonathan Barksdale, Samuel Jameson, William Ramsey and Ryland Rodes are the names which appear most frequently in this connection. [Woods' History of Albemarle] As to Indians, though there is no record of their holding land within Albemarle boundaries at the Indians time of the first patents, their withdrawal must nave been recent, and they doubtless continued for some time to use her hills as hunting-grounds, and her streams as highways. The Indian relics which are scattered over the County, and are still occasionally turned up by the plough, show that they once made general use of this region. It is known that there was a large Indian village on the William Short place, opposite Morven,and others near Greenwood and on the Rivanna above its fork. Indian mounds are common through the County, a number being on the mountains in the Sugar Hollow neighborhood.

Mr. Jefferson gives the following interesting account of his investigation of one of these mounds:

"It was situated on the low grounds of the Rivanna, about two miles above its principal fork, and opposite to some hills, on which had been an Indian town. It was of a spheroidical form, of about forty feet diameter at the base, and had been of about twelve feet altitude, though now reduced by the plough, having been under cultivation about a dozen years. Before this it was covered with trees of twelve inches diameter, and round the base was an excavation of five feet depth and width, from whence the earth had been taken of which the hillock was formed. I first dug superficially in several parts of it, and came to collections of human bones, at different depths, from six inches to three feet below the surface. These were lying in the utmost confusion, and directed to every point of the compass. Bones of the most distant parts were found together, as for instance, the small bones of the foot in the hollow of a scull ; so as, on the whole, to give the idea of bones emptied promiscu- ously from a bag or a basket, and covered over with earth, without any attention to their order. There were some teeth which were judged to be smaller than those of an adult; a rib, and a fragment of the under-jaw of a person about half grown; another of an infant; and a part of the jaw of a child which had not cut its teeth.

"I proceeded then to make a perpendicular cut through the body of the barrow, that I might examine its internal structure. This passed about three from feet from its centre, was opened to the former surface of the earth and was wide enough for a man to walk through and examine its sides. At the bottom, that is, on the level of the circumjacent plain, I found bones; above these a few stones, brought from a cliff a quarter of a mile off, and from the river one-eighth of a mile off; then a large interval of earth, then a stratum of bones, and so on. At one end of the section were four strata of bones plainly distinguishable; at the other three; the strata in one part not ranging with those in another. The bones nearest the surface were least decayed. No holes were discovered in any of them as if made with bullets, arrows, or other weapons. I conjectured that in this barrow might have been a thousand skeletons. Every one will readily seize the circumstances above related, which militate against the opinion that it covered the bones only of persons fallen in battle; and against the tradition also, which would make it the common sepulchre of a town, in which the bodies were placed upright, and touching each other. Appearances certainly indicate that it had derived both origin and growth from the accustomary collection of bones, and deposition of them together; that the first collection had been deposited on the common surface of the earth, a few stones put over it, and then a covering of earth, that the second had been laid on this, had covered more or less of it in proportion to the number of bones, and was then also covered with earth; and so on.

"But on whatever occasion they may have been made, they are of considerable notoriety among the Indians; for a party passing, about thirty years ago, through the part of the country where this barrow is, went through the woods directly to it, without any instructions or inquiry, and having staid about it for some time, with expressions which were construed to be those of sorrow, they returned to the high road, which they had left about half a dozen miles to pay this visit." The manufacture of arrow-heads was apparently carried on in localities vhere the flint was suitable. One of these veins was near Ridgeway, and a quantity of perfect and partly cut heads were found there, together with the chips. At Covesville, a bushel of stones were found together. Following upon the heels of the forgotten pioneers, the region was soon entered by the great land owners.

Authorities: Woods History of Albemarle; Kercheval s History of The Valley; Scott s History of Orange County.

During Lafayette's American tour in 1824, much enthusiasm was aroused in Albemarle by the news of his intended visit to Mr. Jefferson at Monticello. The community as a whole was eager to do him honor, and elaborate preparations, were made for his reception. Accompanied by his son, George Washington Lafayette, a secretary and staff, he arrived on Thursday, Nov. 4th,^[1] and was met at Boyd's Tavern, on the Fluvanna line, by a company of horsemen, named in his honor the Lafayette Guards. The officers of this troop were John H. Craven, Captain; George W. Kinsolving,^[2] First Lieutenant; Richard Watson, Second Lieutenant; and Thomas W. Gilmer, Cornet. In an address of welcome delivered at this point by W. C. Rives, graceful reference was made to the grjtitude of the populace for the military protection Lafayette had afforded them at the time of Tarleton's threat against Scottsville, and he was informed that the road which he had then cut in that vicinity was still called the "Marquis's Road."

Refreshments were served at Boyd's Tavern.^[3] Attended by Mr. Rives and Thomas Jefferson Randolph, General Lafayette then ascended the Monticello landau. The Guards followed, and next came a large body of citizens marshalled into order by Major Clark.^[4] In this manner they proceeded to Monticello, where at two o'clock in the afternoon their approach was announced by bugle. A touching re-union took place between the two old patriots in the presence of the crowds which had gathered on the Monticello lawn. Having entered the mansion, Lafayette was re-called to the porch and addressed "with appropriate gesture"-by the late Judge Fgbert R. Watson, then a boy of fourteen, who was in command of a company of Junior Volunteers. This troop contained the youngsters of the community, among them being the late Mr. Jesse Maury and Col. R. T. W. Duke.

On the next day there were an address and a public reception at the Central Hotel in Charlottesville^[5]. Escorted by the Guards, General Lafayette, Mr. Jefferson and Mr. Madison arrived in the landau drawn by four bays. At the steps of the Hotel the General alighted, and was "received in a handsome manner" by Mr. Randolph. In replying to this address, General Lafayette, in rather quaint English, made the following reference to Tarleton's Raid.^[6]

The recollections you are pleased to allude to are on your part very kind, Sir-I may add, they are very generous. I still with regret remember that owing to the necessity of our operating a junction which an active enemy endeavored to prevent, the town of Charlottesville was exposed to momentary invasion. Yet that very circtinistance has given fresh proof of the patriotism of the citizens of this and neighboring counties, as to their spirited assistance we were in great part indebted to the happy return of our military operations.

The General was then introduced to a large crowd in the reception room. He was evidently grateful at the glow of feeling. It was not constrained respect to renown or power, it was deep and grateful affection.

At twelve o'clock a procession was formed to escort him to the University. Here a thousand women were waving their handkerchiefs from the terraces, while three large flags floated on the Rotunda, the largest bearing the inscription, "Welcome, our Country's Guest." A dinner in the Rotunda was served at three o'clock, the tables being arranged in three concentric circles, with a laurel bower above the seat of Lafayette, and four hundred seated guests. "The meats were excellent," and the toasts called forth re-echoing cheers. Mr. Jefferson was present, but was unable to deliver his speech, which was read for him by one of the officers. In this, he referred to the invaluable support he had received from the General during his Ministry to France: "In fact I only held the nail, he drove it,"-a simile obviously suggested by the uncompleted building and his architectural labors From the Page Genealogy we obtain an account of some of the other participants:

"Ex-President Madison responded to the regular toast, 'James Madison, the ablest expositor of the Constitution,' and ended by proposing the following toast: 'Liberty, which has Virtue for its guest, and gratitude for its feast.' Volunteer toasts were proposed by Thomas J. Randolph, W. C. Rives, Th. Walker Gilmer, Dr. Maim Page, Wm. F. Gordon, V. W. Southall, N. P. Trist, Col. S. Carr, Richard Duke and others. Mr. Soutliall presided with great dignity."

President Monroe had been expected, but was detained by official business.

It being customary for each community to make a distinctive gift to the hero or his party, tradition states that at some time (luring the ceremonies a living-but fangless-rattlesnake was presented to the younger Lafayette. At six o'clock Lafayette returned to Monticello, where he remained until Monday, when he was escorted by the Guards as far as Gordonsville, on his way to Montpelier.

It is not generally remembered that in August, 1825, Lafayette returned to Monticello for a farewell visit, and was again dined at the University. Upon this occasion Jefferson, Madison and Monroe were all present, and Wm. Wirt sat at the right hand of "The Nation's Guest."

Notes:

Authorities:
Woods' History of Albemarle; A. C. Gordon's Wi1liam Fitzhugh Gordon; The Page Genealogy; Niles' Register; Randall's Life of Jefferson; Richmond Enquirer, Nov. 16, 1824.

The earliest religious services within the present limits of Albemarle were conducted by ministers from other communities, who forded swollen streams and traversed rough trails in true missionary style. Of these, the Episcopal clergy were drawn from lower Virginia, and as members of the established church were entitled to the sum of 320 lbs of tobacco for each sermon. Bishop Meade mentions the Rev. Anthony Gavin, rector of Saint Anne's parish from 1736 to 1749, as zealous in this work, with seven missions "up in the mountains." As the Scotch Presbyterians had entered Virginia from the Valley, it was natural that the majority of their early missionaries should have come from Pennsylvania. Later, however, ministers came at intervals from Hanover-among them being the great Dr. Samuel Davies, afterwards President of Princeton, and whom Patrick Henry pronounced "the greatest orator he had ever heard." The Methodists and Baptists were somewhat later in entering the County, their founders coming from the North-Maryland being a centre of Methodism, and New York of the Baptists.

These early religious gatherings were held in private homes, until the increase in population made possible the erection of small and plain church buildings, usually of wood. The dates of these first edifices are now not known.

Two Episcopal churches were early built in St. Anne's parish-the Ballenger Creek, situated on that stream, and The Forge, a mile or two below Carter's Bridge. The early rector in this parish was the Rev. Robert Rose, a man of strong capacity. In Fredericksville parish two churches were erected, "between 1745 and '50,"^[1] on either side of the South West Mountain, that on the west being known as the Buck Mountain Church. On the east, and at the gate of the old Walker mansion, Belvoir, (burned 1836), was built, at about the same time, the church first known as Middle Church, then, from its location, as Belvoir or Wa1ker's, and now for many years as Grace. This church had for its rector (1754-'68), the Rev. James Fontaine Maury, whose attainments and strength of character gave him wide influence in his day. During the French and Indian War lie served, upon the request of the men, as chaplain to the Albemarle troops, and bears testimony in his letters to tileir alacrity and spirit.^[2] But it was a few years later (1763), in legal conflict, that he attained State-wide notoriety. This was in what was commonly called "The Cause of the Parsons," a suit brought to defend against sweeping reduction the tax levied for the clergy of the established church. Mr. Maury^[3] was chosen to bring a test case; he testified sturdily and well in the Hanover Court against an obscure young lawyer named Patrick Henry, and apparently was the only person present unimpressed by his opponent's eloquence. "Mr. Henry," he wrote later, "rose and harangued the jury for near an hour. This harangue turned upon points as much out of his own depth, and that of the jury, as they were foreign from the purpose." Needless to say, the suit was decided against the rector.

In 1820 the Rev. Frederick W. Hatch came to Charlottesville, and for ten years was an active minister, both in town and County. It was during his incumbency that the original Christ Church was erected (1824-'25), this being the first denominational building in the village. The plan for the edifice was furnished, though not designed, by Mr. Jefferson, and was proof of his fine feeling for ecclesiastical architecture. Being outgrown by its congregation, this building, which stood on the present site, was demolished in 1895.

The first authentic list of Christ Church Vestrymen, from Court records,^[4] is as follows: Robert Sangster, Dabney Carr, Howell Lewis, Rice Morris, Dr. Charles H. Meriwether, George W. Kinsolving, Dr. John W. Garrett, Thomas F. Lewis and John L. Thomas. 1835.

The beautiful silver communion service in this church, consisting of Flagon, Paten and Chalice, was presented by Francis W. Gilmer in 1826, and in 1837 a second chalice was given by Miss Juliet M. Gilmer. The church also owns the Prayer Book used and autographed by Mr. Jefferson, and containing the whole of a hymn which he copied; this having been presented l)y Miss Cornelia Taylor, Mrs. Wm. Randolph and Miss Eliza Ruffin.

The Scotch settlers who followed Michael Woods and William Wallace across the Blue Ridge in 1734, soon built a Presbyterian church known, from its location upon Michael Woods' plantation, as the Mountain Plains. (This building, situated near Mechum's River, afterwards passed into the possession of the Baptists, and is still in use by them.) This same Scotch strain in 1746 erected the Rockfish Church and a school, and in 1747 a call was sent to the Rev. Samuel Black, V. D. M.,^[5] of Pennsylvania, by the church of Mountain Plains and the inhabitants of Ivy Creek. Dr. Woods gives a copy of this paper, with 57 names attached, and the yearly sum subscribed by each. Among these the eight who contributed as much as a pound each were Michael Woods, William Woods, Archibald Woods, William Wallace, Davis Stockton, Samuel Jameson, Joseph Kincaid and John McCord. Dr. Black was the first Presbyterian minister to settle in Albemarle, having purchased in 1775 from Richard Stockton 400 acres on Stockton's creek. This property is still in the possession of his descendants.

Presbyterianism in Charlottesville was organized In 1819, and this early church, with three preaching South places and one session which met in rotation at Plains these points, was known for twenty years as the South Plains Church. In Sept. 1839 the Keswick members, numbering 22, petitioned to become a separate organization, but retaining the name of South Plains. This was granted, and the remainder of the church was re-named the Charlottesville Church.^[6] An early Session record, dated April 8, 1820, gives this information: "This day the Session of the Presbyterian Church was lield at Mr. John Kelly's in Charlottesville for the purpose of examination and admittance of members,--Present: Rev. James C. Wilson, Rev. Wm. J. Armstrong, ministers; John Rogers, Thornton Rogers and John Kelly, elders. Mem- bers admitted: Mr. Richard Price, Mr. Thomas T. Schoefield, Mrs. Rice Garland, Mrs. Jacob Wimer, Mrs. Wm. Timberlake, Mrs. G. M. Woods, Mrs. E. Callard, Mrs. Win. Watson, Mrs. Jos. Goodman, Mrs. M. Jones, Miss Lucy Fretwell."

The original Presbyterian church in Charlottesville was built, upon the lot now occupied by the Y. M. C. A., in 1827, the trustees being John Kelly, James O. Carr, Francis Bowman, Thornton Rogers, William Woods, Surveyor, Thomas Menwether and Dr. John Holt Rice.^[7]

In 1809 Semple states that there were only five Baptist churches in Albemarle, these being Albemarle (also known as Buck Mountain or Chestnut Grove) 1767; Totier, 1775; Prethis (or Priddy's) Creek, 1784; Hephzibah, 1802; and Whitesides (or Mount Ed,) 1788.

One of Albemarle's earliest ministers was Andrew Tribble, who was succeeded by William Woods, better known as "Baptist Billy." This striking character was a grandson of the first Michael Woods. Tall, handsome, well-mounted and attended by his personal servant, he must have presented a somewhat worldly appearance to his country congregations, and that there was some unworthy suspicion of his piety is shown by the fact that he was several times "brought up" on various charges-once for permitting too great freedom in the use of spirits. Being invariably acquitted, he continued to preach until the influence of his friend, Mr. Jefferson, persuaded him to leave the ministry for political life. In this new field he refused all remuneration, holding that a man owed his services to his country. (We are told that after the excitement of Tarleton's Raid had begun to subside, Mr. Woods was called before his church on a charge of having worked his slaves at that time on the Sabbath. His defense was that he was collecting provisions for the Virginia troops, and that in such a crisis he "knew no difference between his patriotism and his religion.") Being defeated in 1809 by an opponent of whose character lie held a poor opinion, he became disgusted with the ingratitude of the populace and emigrated to Kentucky. His descendants, however, have played an honorable part in the life of the County.

The Rev. Martin Dawson was a prominent early minister in this denomination, and was usually Moderator of the Albemarle Association. Mr. Burgher, pastor of Whiteside's, had some poetical talent, and composed "songs and otlier small pieces of poetry." In his later years his corpulence made travel and preaching "not practicable." He was esteemed a sound and able preacher.

Pre this (or Priddy's) Creek was in 1809 the largest church in Albemarle Association, having 190 members. Its pastors had been Geo. Eaves, H. Goss and Martin Dawson. In the early years of the last century there "'as a large exodus of Baptists to the West, legal persecutions and restrictions being the chief cause. Geo. Eaves at this time emigrated with a part of his flock to Kentucky.

The Charlottesville Baptist Church was built in 1833, though Dr. Woods states that an organization had existed in tlie town prior to 1820. He tells us that:

"In 1853 the Circuit Court granted permission to sell the old church property, and appointed as trustees for the new church, William P. Farish, Lewis Sowell, James Lobban, John T. Randolph, John Simpson, James Alexander and B. C. Flannagan."

The oldest Methodist church in the County was built at Whitehall, and was the predecessor of Mount Moriah, having been erected prior to 1788. The first Methodist preacher was Athanasius Thomas, who was licensed to celebrate marriages in 1793.^[8] Following him were Bernis Brown in 1794, John Gibson in '97, John Goodman in 1802, and Jacob Watts in 1806. The Charlottesville Church was established in 1834, its trustees being Gessner Harrison, Nathan C. Goodman, Stapleton Sneed, Matthew and Thomas F. Wingfield, Ebenezer Watts and Thos. Pace.

One of the earlier workers among the mountain whites was Mrs. Joshua Wheeler (later, Mrs. Kirby), whose substantial old brick home long stood on the site now occupied by the poor farm. Settling there ahout 1840, as a bride of fifteen, she soon opened a school in a log house in her yard. To this the mountain children came for many years, their tuition being partly provided by the Indigent Fund for Poor Whites. As the only woman of education within their radius, Mrs. Wheeler attained great influence among tile mountain people at times of marriage, birth and death, she was invariably sent for, it being her kindly habit to provide the wedding cake.

Through her exertions, a Baptist Church called hickory hill was built on her land, and an early form of University extension work was the Sun day afternoon service which was conducted here by students under her supervision. Upon the construction of the Southern Railroad, Ifickory Hill was demolished by blasting, and the congregation sought a near-by site, naming the new edifice Cedar Grove.^[9]

A few early missionaries are known to have gone from this County. Though horn in Spotsylvania, the Rev. Albert Lewis Holladay was closely associated with Albemarle. He was one of the first graduates of the University, arid for several years taught with Mr. Tutwiler in the excellent High School for boys which was then conducted in the old Mud Wall-now the Delavan colored church. He afterwards was for four years professor of Languages at Hampden-Sidney College, and in 1836, having become a Presbyterian minister, he was married to Ann Yancy Minor of Brookhill, on the south fork of the Rivanna, and they shortly afterwards sailed for Persia. This voyage was of Six months' duration. For ten years he worked among the Nestorians, being stationed at Urumia. Upon the failure of Mrs. Holladay's health, they returned to Charlottesville, where their foreign-born and-clad children at first created much comment. In 1856 Mr. Holladay was elected President of Hampden-Sidney, brit died before taking office.

From a family long prominent on the South-side a little group of missionaries went out to the Holy Land. This consisted of Dr. James T. Barclay, with his wife and children; his niece, Dr. Oriarina Moon of Viewmont, afterwards married to Dr. John S. Andrews, joining them a few years later.

Dr. Barclay was a grandson of the Thomas Barclay who was a personal friend of Washington and Jefferson, and who served as First Consul-General to France in 1785, as Commissioner to tile Emperor of Morocco, and as Consul-General to Morocco in 1791. Having married an aunt of Mary Julia Baldwin of Staunton, Dr. Barclay the next year (1831) purchased Monticello, and successfully restored the original terraces and plantings. His seventeen-year-old wife maintained the establishment in a manner which won for her the affectionate admiration of the dispossessed Randolphs. However, after four years, they were forced to sell, the stream of visitors having become an unbearable burden.

Soon after this, Dr. and Mrs. Barclay decided to go as missionaries to China, and Mrs. Barclay sold her jewelry, including her wedding ring, as a missionary offering. The grief of Dr. Barclay's mother, however, was so great, that the plan was abandoned. After her death they freed their slaves and started, in October, 1850, for Jerusalem, as the first missionaries of the Disciples Church. During Dr. Barclay's first stay in Jerusalem he assembled the material for a book-once widely popular-"The City of the Great King." This was illustrated by his daughter, who at the risk of her life entered the Tomb of David, and sketched the first picture of it that was ever given to the public. Dr. Barclay, by crawling through sewers underneath the Mosque of Omar (built on the site of Solomon's Temple), made accurate measurements of this edifice. He also did the first printing ever attempted in the Holy City.

Returning in 1854 for a vacation, he published his book, and the next year was appointed by the President to a special position at the Philadelphia Mint, where he made experiments for the prevention of counterfeiting and the deterioration of our metallic currency. In this, lie was so successful that the lower house of Congress passed a bill awarding him a gift of one hundred thousand dollars. This bill the Senate failed to endorse by one vote. Hav-returned [sic] to Jerusalem, Dr. Barclay's missionary labors were ended by the outbreak of the Civil War. He died in the home of his son in Alabama.

Dr. Orianna Moon graduated in 1857 from the Female Medical College of Pennsylvania, afterwards known as The Woman's Medical College. Only five classes, consisting of thirty-one women, had preceded hers, so she may well be considered a pioneer among professional women. Dr. Moon was baptized by her uncle in the pool of Siloam, and for some years practiced medicine among the poor Arabs upon Mt. Olivet.

As to the religious life of the community, it is Interesting to note the difference of opinion expressed by two of the County's citizens. Writing in 1822 Mr. Jefferson says:

"In our Richmond there is much fanaticism, but chiefly among the women. In our village of Charlottesville there is a good degree of religion, with a small spice only of fatalisms. We have four sects, but without either church or meeting house. The court house is the common temple, one Sunday in the month to each. Here, Episcopalian and Presbyterian, Methodist and Baptist, meet together, join in hymning their Maker, listen with attention and devotion to each others preachers and all mix in society in perfect harmony."

This was so to the Old Unitarian's taste that he was a frequent worshipper, being accustomed to ride in on horseback, and carrying under his arm a liglit sort of cane, which opened into a chair-his own invention.

Of this same period Dr. Wm. S. White, pastor of the Charlottesville Church about 1838-'48, writes:

'The village of Charlottesville had, almost from time immemorial, been, not only as irreligious, but as anti-religious, as any community in the State. As late as 1824, or near that time, there was not a house of worship in the village. The number of professing Christians was very small. Dr. Conrad Speece, in passing through the town about the year 1818, attempted to preach one night in the courthouse, but well-nigh failed because of the insufficient light and the rudeness of the boys. He spent the night at the hotel, and such were the sentiments uttered in his hearing by prominent gentlemen, and such the ill-conduct of the young men frequenting the tavern, that he said the next day 'When Satan promised all the kingdoms of the world to Christ, he laid his thumb on Charlottesville, and whispered, "except this place, which I reserve for my own especial use."

However, Dr. White's opinion of a later decade is more hopeful.

"About 1836 Rev. Richard K. Meade took charge of the Episcopal church; Mr. Poindexter, a man of decided talent, became pastor of the Baptist; and tlie Methodists erected a neat and commodious house of worship, and had for their first stationed minister the Rev. Mr. Riddick, an able and excellent man. By 1848 Charlottesville was as religious as any community in tlie State."

A fearless reformer who, as a member of the County bench had a share in tlie promotion of decency and order, was Benjamin Ficklin. Of this retired Baptist preacher, who in 1832 settled in Charlottesville as a manufacturer of tobacco, Dr. Woods writes:

"He was noted for his uprightness and decision of character. At the time of his removal to Charlottesville, the state of things in tile town, morally and religiously. was far from being unexceptionable. In a clandestine manner, most of the stores did more business on Sunday than on other days. The negroes came in in large numbers for purposes of traffic. Great quantities of liquors were sold. In the later hours of that clay, the roads leading from town were lined with men and women in all stages of drunkenness, some staggering with difficulty, others lying helplessly by the wayside. Mr. Ficklin set himself vigorously to remedy these evils. He warned the merchants that every violation of the Sunday law should be visited with the highest penalty. A similar warning was given to the negroes; and by the lively application of the last to those who neglected it, the town and roads were soon cleared of transgressors. So impartial was the old man in the execution of his duty, that when one of his own wagons, sent out to sell tobacco, trespassed on the sacred hours in returning home, he imposed a fine upon himself. It is said that a member of the bar remonstrated with him for what he considered his excessive zeal, and stated by way of illustration, that in the preparation of his cases he had often been obliged to work on Sunday; where upon Mr. Ficklin at once fined him on his own confession. Altogether the whole County was laid under many obligations to his courage, efficiency, and public spirit."

Other churches built in these early years were:

"A Methodist church near Hammock's Gap, 1825 ; Mount Zion Methodist Church, and Mount Pleasant near Hillsboro, 1828; The Scottsville Presbyterian, 1830; the Buck Island Methodist, 1831; Scottsville arid Shiloh Methodist Churches, 1832: Wesley Chapel, Earlysville Free Church, the Milton Baptist Church, 1833 ; Bethel Presbyterian, Mount Moriah Methodist and Hardware Baptist Churches, l834; Cross Roads Episcopal Church, 1835; Charlottesville Disciples' Church, 1836; and in 1837 Free Union Free and Piney Grove Baptist Churches."^[10]

Notes:

Authorities Bishop Meade, Old Families and Churches in Virginia. Woods' History of Albemarle; H. M. White, Wm. S. White, D.D., His Life and Times; Jefferson's Correspondence; Semple, History of the Virginia Baptists; A Hugenot Family.

From the compilation of Joseph Martin we obtain some interesting statistics for this period. In 1830 the population of Albemarle was 22,618. In 1832 there were 6439 slaves, the taxes on them being $1,609.75. There were also 5276 horses, 16 studs, 96 coaches, 43 carry-aIls and 47 gigs, or 186 taxable vehicles for about 23000 people-a total which suggests how almost universal must have been the saddle.

In 1835 there were twenty-seven postoffices in the County, the principal ones being as follows BATESVILLE, generally called Oliver's Old Store. Population 70, with one physician.

CHARLOTTESVILLE, (see next page).

COVESVILLE, (on stage road to Lynchburg.) Several dwellings, I general store, 1 house of entertainment, 1 tan yard, 1 milliner and mantua maker, and a Presbyterian house of worship. Population 30.

EARLYSVILLF, contained 7 dwellings, 1 tavern, 1 tailor. Population 35.

MONTICELLO as Jefferson's residence, had office.

MILTON had already lost river trade. Population 60 whites and 10 free blacks.

NEW YORK,¹ situated in western part of County, between Brooksville and Afton, on Old Road. 15 houses, 2 general stores, 1 tan yard, 1 jackscrew manufacturer. Population 70.

SCOTTSVILLE, formerly Scott's Ferry. 120 houses, chiefly of brick, 2 houses of worship, a male and female school, 14 stores, I apothecary's shop. Principal manufactures were clothing, leather shoes, cabinet work and earthenware. An extensive trade was carried on in flour, bacon, etc. "The market was ready and tempting to the producer, the only fault of its enterprising merchants being that they paid prices too liberal for their own prosperity." There was a savings institution, 2 resident attorneys, 4 regular physicians. Population about 600.

SHADWELL MILLS, erected by Jefferson. Carried on extensive business. (See next page.)

THE UNIVERSITY had about 200 students and its own postoffice.

WARREN had declined since '23. Population 50, 2 physicians.

Charlottesville, at this time, contained, besides the County buildings About 200 handsome and comfortable dwellings, generally of brick, 4 houses of worship, 3 large and commodious hotels, 1 tavern, 2 bookstores, 2 druggists' stores, and about 20 general Mercantile establishments. Mechanical occupations were as follows: 1 printing office issuing a weekly paper, 4 tailoring establishments which employed a number of hands, 3 tan yards, 3 saddlers, 1 tin plate worker, 2 cabinet makers, 3 wheelwrights, 1 chair maker, a house and sign painter, 2 coach and gig manufactories, 2 jewelers, 2 boot and shoe factories which employed a number of hands, 1 hatter, 2 confectioners, 1 brick yard, 2 book binders. Professional men were 6 attorneys at law, 6 physicians and 3 surgeon dentists. Population 957; viz: whites 550, free blacks 59-slaves 348.

The village was provided with a circulating library,² and a fire engine with company attached. Several lines of daily stages passed through, and the navigation of the Rivanna had recently been opened, allowing boats with their lading to ascend to Piraeus, within a mile and a quarter of Charlottesville.

Shadwell was still a village of importance, rivaling Milton on the south side. Mr. Mead tells us that

"In 1835 it contained a large carding factory employing nearly a hundred operatives, a large merchant mill under the management of Messers. John Timberlake and Son, a saw-mill, aud several general stores. shops and dwellings, all stretching along the north bank of the river. The river was then navigable to this point, and here were shipped the grain, tobacco, and products of the surrounding country, including large quantities of flour and cotton-yarns, which would be floated down the river in long bateaux. Until 1850 it continued quite a commercial place. Then the carding factory was destroyed by fire and never rebuilt. After the railroad, Shadwell rapidly declined. The great highway for stage travel then followed the river and passed through Shadwell, crossing at Secretary's Ford,³ near tile present iron railroad bridge at the Woolen Mills."

Of Scottsville in 1832, Dr. White says:

"A turnpike had recently been constructed, extending to Rockfish Gap, and inviting the trade of the Valley of Virginia in that direction. The result was that so small a village rarely ever commanded so active a trade. A hundred large Valley wagons have been seen unloading their rich freight of flour, bacon, venison hams, butter, cheese, beeswax, etc., in one day."

Benjamin Franklin also had built, at his own expense a macadam road from Charlottesville to Scottsville and operated a stage between the two places; Scottsville then being the point where a majority of the students arrived by boat for the University. The road did not follow the present route, but kept to the ridge.

The old Kanawha Canal, which connected the mountain counties with Richmond, and which was one of the great trade arteries of the State, passed through Scottsville⁴. It is of interest to know that the first reaper made by the McCormick Brothers in Rockbridge County was taken to Scottsville, and shipped into the world on a canal freight boat.

Town life was now beginning to acquire dignity, and to offer substantial advantages to tile citizens. The occupants of the pleasant residences of Charlottesville lived in easy comfort, and though the streets were generally dark, unpaved and without sidewalks, there was much social intercourse and private entertaining, the bobbing of lanterns along a street being a common token of approaching festivity.

For public gatherings, there were the churches with their frequent services, and the taverns, or hotels, as it bad become the fashion to call them. Of these the chief were the Central Hotel, still standing near the C. & O. station, the Midway Tavern, located at tlie bead of Vinegar Hill,⁵ where the school of the same name now stands, and Fitch's Hotel (formerly the Eagle Tavern⁶), now the site of The Monticello. In these old structures the community celebrated their political victories with great public dinners, accompanied by endless toasts and speeches. Here, too, tlie students gave dances, though the bar, which was a usual feature of such establishments, frequently contributed an undue gaiety to the evening.⁷ As nearly as 1831, a public theatre was provided, and bands of strolling actors gave infrequent entertainment. Circuses, too, came through. and gave their shows in a vacant space between Mrs. John Kelly's garden (now 506 Park St.) and tbe Cemetery.⁸

Music was a source of social pleasure in the community. In early years, as the fiddle, not always too correctly played, was the usual instrument, it became the habit for those blessed with good voices to render their solos unaccompanied. Among the families which followed this fashion, it was felt that there was something peculiarly unaffected and modest in the sight of a lady singing in her chair, with crossed hands and feet, and it was mentioned with approbation in letters. It is said that Lafayette, on his visit, was entertained in this way by Miss Mary Carr of The Retreat⁹ Pianos, however, came into general use in the thirties. (About 1830, pianos were bought for their young daughters by Dr. Charles Carter and Mr. Opie Norris, and the belief lingers that they were the first in the town.)

In the fifties a weekly singing school was taught in the building of Dr. White's Academy by Professor Deems, who also gave lessons on the piano. This musician had received thorough training abroad, and was an earnest and inspiring teacher. Associated with him was a M. D'Alphonse.¹⁰ athletic instructor at the University, who taught French at the Academy, and pronunciation of French and Italian in the Singing School. He had himself a beautiful voice. A number of fine voices were developed under their tuition, by which the village choirs-and in especial that of the Baptist Church-were greatly benefitted.

As is well known, among the moral questions of the period the ownership of slaves was one which occupied the thoughts of many men throughout the South. Until the stirrings of sectional intolerance darkened the issue, there was an influential element in favor of gradual emancipation, and in Albemarle, where Jefferson's strong anti-slavery feeling must have been felt, the manumission of slaves by will was not uncommon. Many of these efforts at adjusting an almost insoluble problem have doubtless been forgotten, as it was most frequently the childless man who felt at liberty so to dispose of his property, but a few names have escaped oblivion.

Jefferson himself, though overwhelmed with debts, freed five of his servants. Some of the provisions of his will are of interest:

"I give to my good, affectionate and faithful servant Burwell his freedom and the sum of three hundred dollars to buy necessaries to commence his trade of painter and glasier, or to use otherwise as he pleases. I give also to my good servants John Hemings and Joe Fosset their freedom at the end of one year after my death, and to each of them respectively all the tools of their respective shops or callings, and it is my will that a comfortable log house be built for each of the three servants so emancipated, on some part of my lands convenient to them with respect to the residence of their wives arid to Charlottesville arid the University, where they will be mostly employed.-1 give the use of an acre of land to each during his life.-I humbly and earnestly request of the legislature of Virginia a confirmation of the bequest of freedom to these servants with permission to remain in this State where their families and connections are, as an additional instance of favor, of which I have received so many manifestations in the course of my life and for which I now give them my last solemn and dutiful thanks." (Two boys were to receive their freedom upon coming of age.)

Dr. Woods records the following emancipators:

John White: a native of Scotland, who lived on the west side of the Southwest Mountains, and married a daughter of Henry Shelton. He died childless in 1807, and manumitted 47 slaves, making provision for their removal to a free State.

Charles Goodman: did not free his slaves, but required his children to pay them annually a proportion of the value of their labor. His home where Edward Wingfield later lived. Died 1827. "A notably upright man."

Edward Coles: son of the first John Coles of the Green Mountain neighborhood. He was private secretary to Madison. In 1818 he removed to Illinois (a free State), taking with him all his slaves and settling them by families on fartus near Edwardsville. Was twice Governor of that State. Later lived in Philadelphia. His son was a Captain in the Confederate army, arid is buried in tlie Coles cemetery at Enniscorthy

Dr. Charles D. Everett: of Belmont, near Keswick. Physician to Jefferson, private secretary to Monroe. Died 1848, freeing his slaves, and providing for their settlement in Pennsylvania.

John Terrell: near Israel's Gap. Died without children in 1857, and directed his nephew arid heir, Reuben Wood, to send the slaves to Liberia.

Others were

Martin Dawson: the well-known merchant of Milton, and the benefactor of the University. Directed that his slaves should be freed, and either sent to Liberia or comfortably settled in America.

Miss Mattie Duke: sister to Col. R. T. W. Duke, freed her slaves, and sent them to the West.

James Hunter Terrell: of Music Hall. A childless man, it was his pleasure ot gather the young beneath his roof. His home twelve miles east of Charlottesville, was during his long life the constant scene of country frolicking. By his will, 1856, he manumitted all his slaves, and devoted his Ducking Hole estate in Louisa to settling them in Liberia. Dr. James H. Minor, his adopted son, and Mr. Francis K. Nelson of Clover Fields, were his executors. Eighty-three negroes were sent to Liberia in the spring of 1857, this number including a few bought to accompany their wives. A clause in the will read: "Should any of my slaves prefer to remain with their families when the time of departure arrives, it is my will that they may, if they prefer it, be allowed to select their own masters to whom they shall be sold for a mere nominal sum." They had a splendid outfit, passage and $300 each in money.

It was rumored that some of them became discontented and returned to Virginia to enter into voluntary slavery, but this was disproved. Most of them died in a short time. One of them, Wm. Douglas, a bright mulatto, head man at Music Hall, made sugar and coffee, prospered, and sent back after the war for his children and grand-children at Castle Hill.

John Magruder: ancestor of the Magruders of Glenmore. Though his home, Union Hall, was across the Fluvanna line, his wide business interests within Albemarle entitle him to a place in her history. Coming to Virginia from Maryland, he conducted large mills at Union Mills and also at Shadwell. He was conspicuously successful, having left tacli of twelve children the sum of $25,000 in those days a good fortune. His slaves at his death in 1812 were freed.

A weekly paper entitled the Central Gazette was founded in Charlottesville in 1820, and was followed by the Virginia Advocate and the Jeffersonian Republican, which ran simultaneously until the Civil War. These were often supplemented by subscriptions to a Richmond or Staunton paper, as political news was of the first importance to the respectable man of that day.

The most prominent politicians of the State, at this time, were still resident in Albemarle, as is shown by the names which head this chapter.

Andrew Stevenson was born in Culpeper in 1784, but by his marriage with Miss Sarah Coles of Enniscorthy in 1816, he became a resident of the County, having bought land in it the next year. In 1836 he bought the old Carter place, Blenheim, and made it his home for the rest of his life. Mr. Stevenson served in the House of Delegates nine and a half sessions, and was in Congress thirteen, having acted as Speaker of the House for seven sessions. With Clay, he was largely responsible in forming the traditions of that office. As minister to England, 1836-'41, he witnessed the coronation of Queen Victoria, and became popular with the British. The following extract from the letters of his wife gives an account of his introduction of the Albemarle pippin into that country:

"Feb. 1838. And to you, my dear and precious friends on the Green Mountain I must offer our united thanks for your kind remembrance of us. Never did a barrel of apples obtain such a reputation for the fruits of our country. They were eaten and praised by royal lips, and swallowed by many aristocratic throats. Mr. Stevenson proposed sending two dozen to the Queen. Accordingly they were put into a beautiful basket he had given me, and one of the maids of honor presented them. In a day or two I received through the Countess of Durham the royal acknowledgements, and the assurance of their having been much admired; and dining with Lord Durham soon after, he told me my apples had created a great sensation at the palace; that I had been feared they would have been the death of the premier, Lord Melbourne, who, after the Queen retired, had actually eaten two of immense size, and that all who had seen him perpetrate the rash act had considered him as a dead man. But lo! He liveth unharmed. I said. 'So much for their being Virginia apples.' We sent also two dozen to tile Duke of Sussex, one to Lord and Lady Slierbourne, one-half dozen to Lord Palinersoti, and six to a score of other people, not forgetting my friend and poet, Rogers.-I must not fail, however, to tell you that the Duchess of Kent took such a fancy to my nice little basket that she asked permission to keep it, thinking it American manufacture."¹¹

As is weIl known, the Albemarle pippin from this time became the favorite fruit of Queen and Court, and was expressly exempted from tariff.

Upon the close of his political career, Mr. Stevenson retired to Blenheim and farmed. In these last years he served on the Board of Visitors of the University, and was made Rector a year before his death in 1857.

William Cabell Rives, whose career was almost contemporaneous with that Stevenson, was born in Nelson County, 1793, but came to live at Castle Hill in 1816, and in 1819 was married to Judith Page Walker, a daughter of that home, who inherited Castle Hill as her portion of her father's estate. Here Mr. Rives had as preceptors Jefferson, Madison and Monroe; as neighbors and political associates, the Randolphs, Pages, Carters, Cabells, Nelsons, Lewises, Walkers and Gilmers.

Following the accustomed political path, he represented Albemarle in the State Legislature for three terms, served in Congress from 1823 to 1829, and was three times United States Senator. A power in local politics, he formed, along with Ritchie, Dronigoole, Goode and Mason, the strongest ring that had ever been in Virginia. As a diplomat his career was successful, having served as Minister to France, l829-'32, and again from 1849 to 1853. In token of his popularity with the Court, Queen Amelie stood godmother for his daughter, named Amelie in her honor. (A similar honor was paid to Monroe, his granddaughter being the godchild and namesake of Queen Hortense.)

Mrs. Rives was a gifted and charming woman, widely known for her charitable works and her writings. An old lady describes with animation the impression made by the Rives ladies upon their return from France-the gliding, bending walk, the very low tones of voice, and the elaborately braided hair, which at night was not unloosed, but was smoothly covered with a white silk handkerchief. It is probable that at this time the belles of Albemarle had the Paris fashions earlier than their city rivals, through the Riveses, the Monroes and the Stevensons. We read in an old letter of a visit of Mrs. Monroe's to Edgehill, 1807, and the sensation caused by the appearance of her five-year-old daughter in the first pantalettes seen in Virginia.

Upon the approach of the Civil War, Mr. Rives exerted all his powers for the preservation of peace.

He served as delegate to the Peace Congress,¹² 1861, and as member of the first and second Confederate Congresses, 1861 and 1863. As late as April 26 he hoped for "settlement without collision," but when the die was cast he at once gave ardent support to the Confederacy. However, his health failing, he was forced to retire to Castle Hill, where he died in 1868.

With the outbreak of this war our narrative ends. The convulsions of this period, its tragedies and the resultant growth of a new social order, belong to the modern world, and have no place in The Albemarle of Other Days.

Notes:

Authorities:

Martin Matin and Brockenbrough; Edward Mead, Historic Homes of the Southwest Mountains; Bruce, History of the University of Virginia; Woods' History of Albemarle; Minor Meriwether, Lineage of the Meriwethers and Minors Wm. S. White, D.D., His Life and Times; Richmond College Historical Papers; Jos. Everett in Tyler's Genealogical Quarterly.