AN IMPOSSIBLE TASK. To give a full and detailed account or description of all the peculiar physical features of this Land of the Sky would be impossible in the allotted space. Doubtless there are many that are unknown to the writer. The facts given, however, may be relied on as an under- rather than as an over-statement.
WAS IT EVER "LAKE TAHKEEOSTEE?" "Whether or not the valley of the French Broad near Asheville was ever, as has been supposed, the head of a mountain lake, whose lower or deepest part was above Mountain Island and Hot Springs, is an unsettled question for the geologists.[1] Certain it is that the French Broad has cut its way through the mountains at Mountain Island, as is apparent to the most casual observer of the mountains at that place, not only in the obvious signs that still remain to indicate the exact spot where it cut through, but also in the unquestionable beds of that river in the days gone by now on the tops of the mountain ridges which lie along its western banks, probably 200 feet higher than its present bed, and only a short distance above the Mountain Island. These old beds cross the channel of the present stream below the Palisades at Stackhouse's and above the Mountain Island. They contain many stones worn smooth and rounded by the abrasions to which their position in the river subjected them." This is also true of the stones on Battery Park hill. Dr. Sondley suggests that this may have been the famous lake mentioned by Lederer in his account of exploration into North Carolina in 1669-70, as it "fits the description and lies near the place," describing his visit to the Sara Indians who were subject to "a neighbor king residing upon the bank of a great lake called the Usbery, environed on all sides with mountains and Wisacky marsh." The water of this lake was a little brackish, due to mineral waters flowing into it, and was about ten leagues broad. He cites Hawk's History of North Carolina, p.49.
MINOR ODDITIES. On the waters of Meat Camp, Watauga, is a field formerly belonging to David Miller who represented Ashe in the House of Commons in 1810,1811 and 1813, still known as the "Sinking Spring Field," because its water sinks shortly after appearing on the surface of the ground. In this field was also the largest white oak of which people still speak, said to have been 32½ feet in circumference and from 50 to 60 feet to the first limbs. There are several immense springs which gush out of the earth in what is still known as The Meadows, mentioned in the will of Robert Henry as having belonged to him at the time of his death, but which is now owned by the heirs of Dr. Hitchcock of Murphy. On a ridge on the bank of Little Santeetla, near where John Denton used to live, is the largest single spring in the mountains, the stream from it being almost a creek. On the same ridge at the point known as Howard's Knob, near Boone, and probably half a mile to the northeast, is a place about ten feet in diameter on which it is said no snow was ever known to lie, and a piece of the ore taken from it melted into lead. There is also still some talk of a Swift and Munday mine, now long lost, but supposed to be somewhere in Ashe. What metal it was supposed to contain is not now known.
CHEOAR AND NANTARALA RIVERS ORIGINALLY ONE. In the description of the Nantahala quadrangle (1907) the United States Geological survey says of the Nantahala and Cheoah rivers:
"Nantahala river has by far the greatest descent, falling from 4,100 feet on the Blue Ridge to a little less than 1,600 feet at the point where it joins the Little Tennessee, an average grade of about 65 feet per mile, the greater part of it coming in the upper 25 miles. A similarly rapid fall characterizes the lower portion of Cheoah river. Originally the Nantahala flowed in a direct course down the Cheoah valley. It was diverted about midway in its course by a branch of Little Tennessee river, working back along the soluble Murphy marble. Its old elevation of 2,800 feet is marked by pebble deposits on summits one and one-half miles nearly west and three miles nearly southeast of Nantaha1a. On the upper reaches of both these streams small plateaus and rarely over a mile in width, accompany the watercourses. Below on the Nantahala, and Buffalo creek, on the Cheoah, the rivers descend in narrow and rapidly deepening canyons. Similar plateaus, from two to four miles wide, border the upper parts of the Little Tennessee and Tuckaseegee. The river channels have cut their way 200 to 500 feet below the surface of these plateaus. Not far beyond the junction of these two rivers the valley is hemmed in by steep mountains and becomes a narrow and rocky gorge. The descent of 4,000 feet from Hangover to the mouth of aheosa river is accomplished in a trifle over four miles."
THE BALDS. There are no balds on the Blue Ridge; but from Whitetop at the Virginia line to the Stratton and Hooper balds in Graham county, the Great Smoky mountain summits, abound in bald spots. They are usually above the 5,000-foot mark, and contain no trees whatever. Instead, they are carpeted with rich wild grass, and tradition says that before white men turned their cattle on them to graze, this grass was "saddle-high." Some of the transverse ranges have these balds also, notably the Nantahalas and the Balsams. There must be a thousand acres of almost level and perfectly bald lands on the Roan and Yellow mountains, and a large acreage on the Tusquittee and Nantahala. From Thunderhead in Swain to the Little Tennessee river there is a succession of bald summits, and the Andrews bald just north of Clingman's Dome covers a considerable area. There are invariably small springs flowing from the edges of these bald spots, where cattle slake their thirst in midsummer. From a distance these green patches seem to be yellow, hence the name of the Yellow mountain just north of the Roan. Surrounding these balds are usually forests of balsam trees in primeval state. The Blacks and Clingman's Dome are covered with them, also the Balsam mountains, in Haywood county. The soil is black and deep.
STRATTON AND HOOPER BALDS. At the head of Santeetla and Buffalo creeks in Graham county, near its junction with Cherokee, are the Hooper and Stratton Balds, named for first settlers by those names. Near them are the Haw Knob and Laurel Top; and to the north Hangover, Hayo and Fodder Stack mountains. Just below the Hangover is the residence of Dave Orr, one of the pioneers of that section and still a famous bear hunter. In 1897 a bear caught his bell-wether, and the next day Dave belled a cowardly young hound and left him to gnaw upon the carcass of the dead sheep, and waited. Soon the pup came running, with bruin at his heels. Dave had a "mess of bar meat for dinner that day."
TUSQUITTEE BALDS. The view from the balds of Tusquittee is unsurpassed in the mountains. There are several bald prominences on this mountain, one of which is known as the Medlock Bald and another the Pot Rock Bald, from a depression in the rock almost the exact size and depth of an ordinary pot. It is at least two miles along the top of this mountain, which forms an elbow in its course.
To the north of this range and scarcely three miles distant is the parallel range, known as Valley River mountains, and they are separated by Fires creek. They come together at a point called Nigger Head. This is at the head of Tunah and Chogah creeks, and there is a high, narrow ridge running from it to the Weatherman Bald, across which deer and bear used to have to pass when driven by the hunters from the head of Chogah creek or Fires creek. It was along this sharp ridge, scarcely wide enough for a narrow footpath, that "Standers" used to be placed in order to get a shot at the fleeing game. The late Alex. P. Munday of Aquone used to be a famous bear hunter, and his old dog, "Nig," and his gray stallion, "Buck," knew better where to go than he did himself in order to get the best stand for a shot. It is near here that one finds the Juckers and Weatherman "roughs," or rocky places, grown up in vines, laurel and spruce pines. "Roughs" is sufficiently descriptive of them. On the Valley River mountains the principal peaks are Beal's Knob, White Oak Knob, the Big Stamp Knob and the Peachtree Knob.
MITCHELL'S PEAK. This highest point east of the Rocky mountains is about thirty miles from Asheville. The road used to go via what is now Black Mountain Station and the old Patton house, near what is the intake of the city water works and Gombroon, up the North Fork of the Swannanoa river almost to the Estatoe gap, where it took to the left, and passing the Half Way house,' built by the late William Patton of Charleston, S. C., zig-zagged up to the top. There is now a road via Montreat and Graybeard. Another trail is from Pensacola, in Yancey, in trying to follow which Prof. Mitchell lost his life, and another from South Toe river. It is also possible to go along the ridge from Celo at the head of Cattail. In 1905 Mr. R. S. Howland constructed a road from what is now the E. W. Grove park to the top of Sunset mountain, thence to Locust gap, thence to Craven's gap, and thence to within half a mile of Bull gap, the grade being about one per cent from Overlook Park, and costing over $50,000. Later on Dr. C. P. Ambler constructed a road from this terminus to his house on a slope of Craggy, and known as Rattlesnake Lodge. From there on, in 1911, a riding way was built via Craggy to Mitchell's Peak; but it was never finished. This is the road that will be converted into "The Crest of the Blue Ridge" highway, and will pass Mitchell's Peak and go On via Altamont to Linville gap, over the Yonahlossie road to Blowing Rock. Work was done on this road near Altamont in the Summer of 1912. The view from Mitchell's Peak is somewhat obstructed by the balsam growth surrounding it, and as clouds hover over it almost constantly, disappointment often attends a visit to this lofty point. In 1877 there was a hut made of balsam logs and covered with boughs, that afforded shelter to visitors, in addition to that under the shelving ledge of rock, beneath which hundreds of visitors have shivered and lain awake for hours. About 1885 the U. S. Weather Bureau established a station there, when more comfortable quarters were constructed for the observers. They had to "pack" their supplies up late in the fall, and were practically isolated till spring. That house, however, like the first spoken of, was afterwards burned by vandals. Other vandals, later on have shot holes through the monument to Prof. Mitchell, and one fiend sank his axe-blade clean through one of its sides. There is a good spring near the peak. In 1912 a lumber company erected another shelter on top, and quarters can be secured for a night's lodging under certain conditions. Mr. William Patton of Charleston built the first trail to the top in 1857-58.
THE GRANDFATHER. From Linville city in Avery county, from Banner Elk, and from Blowing Rock good trails run to the top of the highest of the five peaks of the Grandfather. Pinola and Montezuma on the Linville river railroad are the nearest railroad points. The view is splendid-unsurpassed, in fact. Near the top is a spring which is said to be the coldest in the mountains, being 45° in all seasons. Alexander McRae's and the Grandfather Inn are the nearest stopping places. McRea was born in Glenelg, Inverness county, Scotland, and came over to America in 1885, and has furnished music on the bagpipes to visitors- to the Grandfather ever since.[2]
THE ROAN MOUNTAIN. This can be reached from Mountain station on the East Tennessee and Western North Carolina Railroad or from Bakersville, three miles Toecane ou the Cincinnati, Clinchfield and Ohio Railroad. It is much patronized by hay-fever patients. There is fine hotel there. The view is better than any other. It over 6,000 feet above the sea.
NANTAHALA BALDS. The Wayah, Wine Spring, Rocky, Jarrett's and Little balds are the principal peaks. They can be reached from Franklin or from Aquone, both in Macon county. The view is splendid.
THUNDERHEAD. Just above what is still known as the Anderson Road, an abandoned wagon road from Tennessee to the Spence cabin in Swain, stands Thunderhead, one of the lofty peaks of the Great Smokies. From it Miss Mary N. Murfree saw the picture her pen painted in one of her stories of this region.
A PEN PICTURE. "On a certain steep and savage slope of the Great Smoky Mountains the primeval wilderness for many miles is unbroken save one meagre clearing. The presence of humanity upon the earth is further attested only by a log cabin, high on the rugged slant. At night, the stars seem hardly more aloof than the valley below. By day, the mountains assert their solemn vicinage, an austere company. The clouds that silently commune with the great peaks, the sinister and scathing deeds of the lightnings, the passionate rhetoric of the thunders, the triumphant pageantry of the sunset tides, and the wistful yearnings of the dawn aspiring to the day--these might seem only incidents of this lonely and exalted life. So august is this mountain scheme that it fills all the world with its massive multitudinous presence: still stretching out into the dim blue distances an infinite perspective of peak and range and lateral spur, till one may hardly believe that the fancy does not juggle with the fact."[3]
HELLS. There are many tangles and thicketty places in the coves of these mountains, and others where the laurel and ivy and small spruce pines so cover the banks of the streams as to render locomotion along them impossible. are necessary to hew a way in many places, and woe to that man who ventures too far into their depths by crawling or creeping between their rigid branches. At the head of Tellico creek in Tennessee and in the Rainbow country of North Carolina, where the State line is now in dispute, is what is called Jeffries Hell. It is said that many years ago a man named Jeffries got bewildered in that place and spent nine days there without food before he managed to effect his escape. There are other hells in the mountains, but Jeffries' is the largest and most famous.
THE CHIMNEYS. At the head of one of the Pigeons, and just west of Collins gap, visible from the Ocona Lufty road, are three sharp, pyramidal shaped pinnacles called the Chimneys. They are covered with small spruce pines and rocks, but how any soil manages to cling to such steep mountain sides is a mystery. They are green in winter because of the spruce pines covering them, and present a striking contrast to other peaks around them.
GRAPHIC PEN PICTURES. In "The Heart of the Alleghanies" we have glowing descriptions of the view from Clingman's Dome, the culminating point of the Great Smoky range, and which Gen. Clingman measured in 1857; of the Great Balsam Divide, the Plott Balsams, and of the mysterious Juda-Culla Old Field, just south of the Old Bald gap between Richland creek and Caney Fork river; which always "presents a weird and unnatural appearance…. Its only growth presents a peculiar yellowish look, and the fact that no tree or sapling has ever grown within its limits has not been accounted for scientifically." Here, the legend says, the giant Tsulkalu made a clearing for his farm. Here flint arrow-heads and broken pottery have been found, showing "almost conclusively that some of the Cherokees themselves … occupied it as an abiding place for years." This book also tells of the "fire-scalds," and of the Devil's Court House in the Balsams, which, however, is not his Supreme court house the latter being on Whiteside mountain. Gen. Clingman, in his "Speeches and Writings," describes Shining Rock in the Balsams most strikingly; and says of the Devil's Old Field on the Balsams that it was the Devil's chosen resting place. He also accounts for the balds by saying the Indians supposed they were made by the devil's footsteps as he walked over the tops of the mountains. A fine description of the Tuckaseegee falls above Webster is given in the "Heart of Alleghanies."
OTHER NOTED ROCKS. Buzzards' Rocks and the Dogs' Ears, near Shull's Mills, Watauga county; Black Rock, above Horse Cove; Satula (pronounced Stooly) near Highlands; Samson's Chimney, near Howard's Knob at Boone; Hawk's Bill and Table Rock, between Morganton and Linville mountain; Riddle's and Howard's Knobs, near Boone; Nigger Head, near Jefferson, and scores of others are objects of local interest in various localities. Hanging Rock, above Banner Elk, and the North Pinnacle, on the Beech mountain, in the same locality, are noted rocks, from the last of which a fine view can be had after an easy climb from a good road.
TRACK ROCKS. "Some distance further to the west (from Juda-Culla Old Field) on the north bank of Caney Fork, about one mile above Moses' creek and perhaps ten miles above Webster, is the Juda-Culla Rock, a large soap-stone slab covered with rude carvings, which, according to…tradition, are scratches made by the giant in jumping from his, farm on the mountain to the creek below."[4] Tracks of elk, wolves, etc., are said to be visible in a rock at the head of Devil's creek in Mitchell county.
"THE ROCKS." What are locally known as "The Rocks" are two immense masses of stone standing detached m a pasture field on the road from Plumtree to Bakersville They are a landmark. Bynum's Bluff is also noted.
SMALL NATURAL BRIDGE. Just over the ridge from the Caney Fork of the Tuckaseegee river, in what is called Canada, and where it has been suspected that one or more blockade stills have existed in time past, present and (will) to come, is Tennessee creek. It flows under a small natural rock bridge when it is normal, and over it when it is "full."
THE TRIANGLE TREE. Almost one mile above Fairfax post office on the Little Tennessee river, in Swain county, stood, until a great freshet came and washed it away eight or ten years ago, one of the most unusual and remarkable freaks in the shape of tree growth in America. But so isolated had it become by reason of the practical abandonment of late years of the wagon road from Bushnel to Rocky Point that few strangers ever saw it, while to the few natives of region, who had seen it for years and years, it called marked attention.
It was a large spruce pine at least three feet in diameter five feet above the ground where a limb or branch of a diameter of at least eighteen inches left the main trunk at an angle of about forty-five degrees and extended out toward the river, while three feet above its point of departure from the main trunk a second limb or branch, twelve inches in diameter, shot out in the same direction as the first, but at an angle of seventy-five or eighty degrees and joined itself to the first limb six or seven feet from its base so perfectly that it grew into and had become a part thereof, thus forming with the main trunk a perfect triangle of living wood. It was easy to climb into this triangle and by sitting astride the first or lower limb to hold the body erect against the trunk of the tree immediately under the second limb. It is a pity it was never photographed, but the dimensions given above are accurate, since they were carefully measured and noted while the tree was still standing in all its glory.
THE HIGH ROCKS. Just below the mouth of Eagle creek are what are locally called the "High Rocks." They are a tumbled mass of solid rocks, some of them larger than a two-roomed house, resting one upon the other above the riverside and extending almost to the top of the mountain. They are apparently now just where they found themselves when eons and eons ago some cataclysm of nature tumbled these mountains about as though they had been pebbles and grains of sand.
THE CHIMNEYS. On the road from Montezuma to Banner Elk and just before reaching the Sugar Gap, are two other large masses of rook projecting out of the side of the mountain like two enormous and discolored incisor teeth. One of them is said to be eighty feet in height and the other and further one from the road, nearly as high. There is no photograph of these immense rock heaps, but fortunately there is no danger of their destruction by a freshet or other cause. They are called "The Chimneys."
THE DEVIL'S CAP. Eight miles from Altamont and about three from the Cold Spring hotel in Burke county, on Ginger Cake mountain, and just east of Linville river, below Linville Falls, is what is called the Devil's Cap. It is a perpendicular mass of rock sixty or seventy feet high and about twenty feet in diameter, surmounted by a large flat stone so placed on its pedestal as to look as if it must surely soon slide off and fall to the ground. It is in a little swag or gap in this ridge, and is best seen from the top of a precipice near by, from which can also be had through a rift in the dense foliage, a magnificent view of the wild and romantic Linville Gorge, the wildest and most inaccessible m the mountains, with the possible exception of that of the Nantahala, between the "Apple Tree" place and Jarrett's Station on on the Murphy branch of the Western North Carolina Railroad. This freak of nature, the Devil's Cap however, has been photographed.
DUTCH CREEK FALLS. Within half a mile of Valle Crucis school, Watauga, are the Dutch creek falls, which are about eighty feet in height. The little stream spreads itself evenly over the surface of the precipice down which it slides rather than falls, forming a fine picture as seen from the gloomy gorge below. It is more easy of access than falls generally are, and is well worth a visit.
LINVILLE FALLS are at Linville, a postoffice and village in what is now Avery county. The falls had in 1876 two distinct falls, each about 35 feet in height, the upper falls pouring into a small basin and then plunging over another precipice into the black pool below. But, of late years, the lower ledge of rock has given way from some cause, and much of the water passes under and around the boulders into which it has been broken, instead of falling smoothly over a straight line of rock, as formerly. It is the most accessible of all falls now.
ELK FALLS. Three miles from Cranberry are the Falls of Elk, and they are about as high as the Dutch creek falls, but carrying more water in the descent. The cascades or rapids of the same creek a few miles above, at Banner's Elk, are also worth a visit.
WATAUGA FALLS are a few hundred feet west of the North Carolina and Tennessee line. They are hardly falls, but rapids, pouring an immense volume of water through a narrow gorge, and requiring several hundred feet at that place to gain comparative smoothness. The scenery around the falls is wild and imposing, the rocks left bare by the current being immense, It is only about a quarter of a mile from the Butler-Valle Crucis turnpike.
THE "DRY" FALLS. The Dry, or Pitcher falls, of the Cullasaga river, four miles from Highlands, are so called because the stream leaps from the precipice above and leaves a clear dry space beneath, behind and under which one can pass to the further side dry-shod. It is about seventy-five feet in height and the water pours over the rock ledge from which it leaps much as does a stream poured from the mouth of a pitcher.
HICKORY-NUT FALLS. The Hickory Nut Falls are just east of the Hickory Nut gap of the Blue Ridge. This appears to be a mere ribbon of water hung from the top of the precipice, but in reality it is a creek of such size as to have power to turn a grist mill before leaping to the gorge nine hundred feet below.
CHIMNEY ROCK. Between this loftiest waterfall in the Appalachians and the Hickory Nut gap road is the Chimney Rock, an enormous rock mass on the eastern slope of the Blue Ridge, eighty or ninety feet in height. The large trees growing around it reveal by contrast its immense size and height. Though, till within the last twenty years, no man had ever scaled its height to let the plummet down, a ladder-like stairway now reaches its summit and a wooden railing extends all the way around it.
THE POOLS. The Pools, just above the old Logan hotel or tavern in the same picturesque locality, are three circular holes from eight to fifteen feet in diameter, in the rock bed of the creek, all of which are said to be bottomless. It is evident that they were made by the revolution of small stones on the softer surface of the creek bed, kept in constant motion by the continual flow of the creek; but they are not bottomless, nor is there any danger of suction, as swimmers disport themselves in their cool depths every summer.
ESMERALDA'S CABIN. Just across the road is the detached rock mass locally known as Esmeralda's cabin, because of the delightful romance located in that region by the gifted Mrs. Frances Hodgson Burnett, called "Esmeralda," and which was popular twenty-five years ago. Indeed, the novel was dramatized and successfully played at that time in New York and all over the country.
SHAKING BALD. Here, too, is Esmeralda Inn, long kept by Col. Thomas Turner, a veteran of the Federal Army, and now by his son, while not far away is Bat Cave, a gloomy cavern in the face of the mountain above one prong of the Broad river; and Shaking Bald, a mountain top which, in the seventies, caused considerable newspaper comment because of the noises said to have been heard in that locality. Earthquake shocks and volcanoes even were predicted for several years but nothing ever came of the stories. This locality, one the most charming and picturesque in the mountains, is quately described in Christian Reid's "Land of the Sky, the novel which gave its name to this entire region. It was published in l875[5] and was one of the means of drawing public attention to the beautiful scenery of the mountain region of North Carolina and its unsurpassed summer climate. The Hickory Nut region is in what is called the Thermal Belt.
HOT SPRINGS. Paint Rock and Hot Springs, on the French Broad river, about forty miles northwest from Asheville, are two other remarkable places in this mountain region worthy of mention, which the same gifted author described with her facile pen in the same charming story. Hot Springs was discovered in l787 by some soldiers from the Watauga settlement when in pursuit of a band of Cherokee Indians, and has been a noted health resort ever since. Although its waters are strongly impregnated with mineral and have medicinal properties, they are as clear as crystal. They are very beneficial for gouty and rheumatic troubles. There is a large and well appointed hotel which is very popular every season of the year.
PAINT ROCK. "The Painted Rock" of old - Cherokee days, or "Paint Rock" of our times, is a rock cliff over a hundred feet in height which has a red stain on its outer surface caused by the oxidation of the iron in its composition. Whatever figures of men or animals ever existed upon its face have long since disappeared. There is the usual romantic story of one or two lovers throwing himself or herself, or themselves, from the top of this rock and from the top of another rock nearly as high in the neighborhood of Hot Springs, called Lover's Leap, but there is no tangible evidence that any local lovers ever were so foolish.
THE SMOKING MOUNTAIN. Twenty years ago there were a series of newspaper stories of a smoking mountain above Bee Tree creek in Buncombe county, and many citizens visited the locality in question only to be disappointed, while none save those living constantly in the neighborhood ever saw the smoke, and by the time others were called from a distance it had disappeared. What it was, if anything more than autumn haze or imagination, was never established. It, however, "had nothing to do with anything regarding volcanic action."[6]
THE WALKS. A short distance below Flat Shoals of Watauga river, and near the Tennessee line, are a series of immovable natural stepping stones, regularly placed across the bed of the river, and over which one may walk dry-shod even when the stream is considerably swolen. Hence the name-- The Walks.
"THUS FAR." Almost from the Virginia line to the Little Tennessee river there is a fringe of balsam or white spruce crowning the crest of the western escarpment known as the Smoky mountains, except where the dense blue fringe of trees is broken by the "balds." But, remarkable as it may seem, there is not a single tree or sapling of the balsam growth south of the Little Tennessee, although the Gregory Bald, only a few miles to the northeast, is fringed by a dense growth of balsams which extend to both the Big and Little Parson balds. The soil and climate and, indeed, the altitude of the range south of the Little Tennessee, are almost identical with those to the north, but neither bird nor breeze has ever carried the balsam seed across the river and imbedded it in the soil beyond in a manner that has resulted in its growth across which the dead line of that rapid stream.
HELL's HALF-ACRE.[7] "The bear-hunters are the only men familiar with these head-waters of the Richland creek. At the foot of the steep, funereal wall lies one spot known as Hell's Half-Acre. Did you ever notice, in places along the bank of a wide woodland river, after a spring flood, the great piles of huge drif~logs, sometimes covering an entire field, and heaped as high as a house? Hell's Half-Acre is like one of these fields. It is wind and time, however, which bring the trees, loosened from their hold on the dizzy heights and craggy slopes, thundering down into this pit.
"THE CHIMBLEYS AND SHINIES."[7] The "Chimbleys and Shinies," as called by the mountaineers, form another feature of the region of the Gulfs. The former are walls of rock, either bare or overgrown with wild vines and ivy. They take their name from their resemblance to chimneys as the fogs curl up their faces and away from their tops. The Shinies are sloping ledges of rock, bare like the Chimneys, or covered with great thick plaits of shrubs, like the poisonous hemlock the rhododendron, and kalmia. Water usually trickles over their faces. In winter it freezes, making surfaces that, seen from a distance, dazzle the eye.
"HERRYCANES." The effects of a hurricane in the Balsam mountains are described thus in "The Heart of the Alleghanies )
"For two miles, along this sharp ridge, nearly every other tree had been whirled by the storm from its footing. They not only covered the path with their trunks bristling with straight branches; but, instead of being cut off short, the wind had torn them up by the roots, lifting thereby all the soil from the black rocks, and leaving great holes for us to descend into, cross and then ascend. It was a continuous crawl and climb for this distance."
Violent windstorms are rare in these mountains, owing to the fact that they are broken up as they approach from the lowlands east, west and south; but there are two other places called "herrycanes," one being on a branch at the head of Tusquittee creek in Clay county, and the other on Indian creek just above its junction with Ugly creek, thus forming Cataloochee creek in Haywood county. The Clay hurricane occurred soon after the Civil War or during it, and the Haywood hurricane about 1896. The fallen timber in Clay is still visible, while a whole mountain side in front of Jesse Palmer's residence is covered with the rent fragments of giant trees which have been uprooted or twisted from their trunks bodily.
LOOKING-GLASS FALLS. These are in Transylvania county and are on G. W. Vanderbilt's "Pisgah Forest tract." In the sale of his timber in 1812, he reserved twenty acres around these falls.[8]