Life in Old Virginia

CHAPTER, I

The Domain of Virginia

The historian Burke wrote: "A correct history of Virginia would be the history of North America itself, a portion of the globe, which enjoying the invaluable privilege of self government, promises to eclipse the glory of Rome and Athens. In this part of the American Continent the first permanent establishment was farmed by the English, and it is here we must look for those ancient documents and materials, whose discovery will throw light on the history of the other States."

Virginia, now a South Atlantic State, and one of the original thirteen States to form the Union, was named in honor of Elizabeth, the Virgin Queen, and originally comprised all the territory north of Florida extending "from sea to sea,"across this continent, from the Atlantic to the Pacific Oceans. What is now left of this immense territory, bearing the honored name of Virginia, lies between the parallels of 30° 31' and 30° 27' North; and longitude 75° 13' and 83° 37' West, containing a gross area of 42,450 square miles, or 27,168,000 acres; 40,125 square miles of which is land surface, and 2,325 square miles of water surface. It contains 100 counties, which are grouped into sip grand divisions, as follows:

(1) Tidewater Virginia; (2) Middle Virginia; (3) Piedmont, Virginia; (4) The Valley of Virginia; (5) The Blue Ridge, and (6) Appalachia.

The first dividing of the original territory named Virginia was by James I of England, who on April 10, 1606, granted a charter to the "South Virginia Company "of London, commonly called the "London Company,"and to the "North Virginia Company,"of Plymouth. When this charter was granted, the Crown of England claimed the whole of North America called "Virginia," between 34° and 45° north latitude under the name of Virginia, by right of discovery. It was conceded that Spain occupied all south of 34°-commonly called Florida-and to France was conceded all north of 45°. To the London Company was granted the territory between 34° and 41° north latitude, running from ocean to ocean.

The northern limits of Virginia were afterwards curtailed by grants to Lord Baltimore in 1631 and to William Penn in 1681, and the southern limits by a grant to the Proprietors of the Carolinas by charter in 1663. The next division of Virginia's territory was by deed of cession through her delegates in the Continental Congress, Thomas Jefferson, Samuel Hardy,-Arthur Lee, and James Monroe on March 1, 1784.

When the definite treaty of peace with Great Britain was made, September 3, 1783, the general government had no lands in its possession, though the States had premised to cede their western lands. All the territory included in that treaty was then claimed by some one or other of the several States. It was through the cessions of these several States which claimed the lands that the United States government derived title to what is known as public lands, or "public domain." Subsequently both the public and national domain vas acquired and added to by the general government by purchase, treaty and annexation from France, Spain, Texas, and Russia., during several respective periods. The "national domain"is the total area, land and water, embraced within the boundaries of the United States of America. The United States government also holds dominion over the Sandwich Islands, some parts of the West Indies, and the Philippine Islands, all of which are outside the limits of the main lands of North America.

Prior to 1781, six only of the original thirteen States, viz., New Hampshire, Rhode Island, New Jersey, Pennsylvania, Maryland, and Delaware had their present defined boundaries, while the remaining seven States, claimed some lands to the west. The States with inexact boundaries ceded their claims to the lands west of their present limits to the general Government.

The total actual cessions of these seven States, viz: Connecticut, New York, Massachusetts, Virginia, North Carolina, South Carolina, and Georgia, for public domain, were 404,956 square miles, or 259,171,840 acres. Of this amount Virginia ceded 195,431,680 acres, the most valuable gift ever recorded in the history of this nation. Hence her right to the honored title of " The Mother of States."

On March 1, 1784, Virginia, through her delegates in the Continental Congress completed the act of ceding all the territory west of the State of Pennsylvania and northwest of the river Ohio below the forty-first parallel of north latitude, which was hers by charter right. She had an additional claim to the western territory extending north from the forty first parallel north latitude to Lakes Michigan and Huron, now in Illinois and Michigan, and northward, by reason of . conquest and occupancy during the Revolutionary War by her State troops under General George Rogers Clark.

The present area of the State of Kentucky, 40,400 square miles, was a "District"of Virginia, lying south of the Ohio River, and was allowed to be organized into a State in 1792.

The extent of the territory Virginia gave to the Union was :

The State of Ohio (excepting the Western Reserve and Fire-lands claimed by the State of Connecticut and lands now in Michigan)	39,364 sq. miles
The State of Indiana	33,809 sq. miles
The State of Illinois	55,414 sq. miles

She also ceded lands claimed by the State of Connecticut and Massacusetts under their crown charters, as well as by the United States under the definite treaty of peace with Great Britian of 1783:

In Michigan	56,451 sq. miles
In Wisconsin	53,924 sq. miles
In Minnesota, east of Mississippi River	26,000 sq. miles
Total (disputed and undisputed) cession by Virginia including Kentucky	305,362 sq. miles

The last slice of territory taken from Old Virginia was 23,000 square miles, which went to form the State of West Virginia, by an Act of Congress, December 31, 1862, which took effect June 9, 1863.

CHAPTER II

The Peninsulas of Tidewater Virginia

The region which the colonists first selected for settlement is known as "Tidewater Virginia."It was there that the first great struggle of the white race was begun with the aboriginal inhabitants for the purpose of establishing a permanent abiding home in a new world, many years before the pilgrim Fathers "first sighted Plymouth Rock. The howling of the wild beasts of the forest, the war whoop of the equally wild man and the solemn hoot of the midnight owl were the only sounds to greet the ears of the first settler in all the vast territory which now comprises this " Glorious Union of States"The settlement of this region was begun more than two hundred years before the first railroad was built upon this planet. There were then no public highways, but only here and there an Indian trail to point the new comer through the wide wilderness of America.

This region of America is full of the romances and the realities of the experiences of the early years of the first permanent settlement of the English speaking people on this Continent. Here it was for the first time that the stroke of the axe of the English laid prostrate the standing giants of the forests of the new world, and thereby awakened nature from its slumbers and sounded new and alarming echoes throughout the lands christened "Virginia "by a Virgin Queen of the Old World. It was here that the beasts of the wild woods, and the fowls of the air first were shocked to death by the burst of the rifle's discharge, and the superstitious natives thus forced to believe that the new comers were born not of woman but sent armed from the skies with a demon of destruction which no other earthly power possessed. It was there the first thoughts of human freedom were given birth and voice to cheer mankind. The "cradle of liberty for this Continent "was first tenanted and rocked there to lull the cries of the "child of freedom."It was there the first truly representative legislative body of the people assembled on this continent. The first sound of praise and thanksgiving ever uttered in the language of this nation from a house of worship dedicated to God, in the new found world, vibrated the air of Tidewater Virginia, and wafted its way to the throne of Grace, bespeaking the coming of a new race. It was at Jamestown that the first church was built within the territory which later comprised the thirteen original States. It was in that section that Pocahontas, the untutored daughter of a savage chief, though born in the primeval forest, first taught the world that "pity and mercy "are the inherent qualities of womankind, and are not confined to the cultured princesses of the stately palaces of civilization.

It was here that the first slave set foot upon the mainland of this continent. Here it was that the white man first exercised the right of suffrage, and that trial by jury was first granted. The first free school on this continent was started in this section. The first manufactures of this continent were begun here, and were the first of such products sent from the newly found continent to the Old World.

Tidewater Virginia has produced more eminent and illustrious men of America than any other section of the same extent within the boundaries of this nation. Its history has inspired the orator, enthused the soldier, and awakened in the statesman suggestions of wisdom, the benefits of which this nation is now the recipient.

Its soil is sprinkled with the blood of the patriots of the Revolution in their successful battling at Yorktown, which cheered a weak people in their mighty struggle for final freedom. The marks of many heroic battles for the perpetuation of the "Old Union of States,"or a disunited nation and a « New Confederacy,"are yet in plain view in many parts of section of Virginia, bearing evidence of the willing sacrifices which all Americans will make in defense of a principle.

Tidewater Virginia begins at a gap in the Atlantic Ocean shores of Virginia, known as the " Capes of the Chesapeake."This gap forms an entrance more than twelve miles in width, and within a short distance inland from its mouth it broadens into a magnificent stream, in some places nearly forty miles wide, and is known as the Chesapeake Bay. The salt waters which flow from the Atlantic Ocean into this big bay, through its capacious mouth, spread out and form long rivers, such as the James, Rappahannock, and Potomac, and shorter streams as the York, Piankatank, Yeocomico, Coan, Wicomico, Nomini and others too numerous to mention, and inlets, creeks, and coves innumerable. The Chesapeake Bay also sends its flood of waters to the shores of Maryland, where they form innumerable streams throughout that State.

Tidewater Virginia is divided into nine natural subdivisions, or large (primary) peninsulas, each of which contains many small (subordinate) peninsulas, no part of which is elevated more than 150 feet above sea level.

The large peninsulas are grouped as follows
1. "The Eastern Shore Peninsula,"consisting of two counties:

Northampton and Accomac. The first was named in honor of the Earl of Northampton; the latter was named after an Indian tribe inhabiting that section. Northampton and Accomac were twice named. The territory composing the Eastern Shore of Virginia was first named Accawmake. Under this name it was made one of the eight original shires into which Virginia was divided in 1634, and continued under the name of Accawmake until 1642, when it was changed to Northampton. In 1672 Accomac was formed from its upper part, and the lower part retained the name of Northampton. This peninsula begins on the Atlantic coast at Cape Charles, and extends along the eastern shore of Chesapeake Bay to the Maryland line. It includes the land across to the Atlantic coast.

2. The "Norfolk Peninsula "consisting of two counties Princess Anne, formed in 1691, from Lower Norfolk, named in honor of Queen Anne.

Norfolk, formed in 1691, from part of Lower Norfolk, named in honor of Duke of Norfolk.

This peninsula begins on the Atlantic coast at the North Carolina line, extending inland around Cape Henry to the mouth of James River.

3. The "Southside Peninsula "containing seven counties Nansemond was formed in 1639 from Upper Norfolk, and named Nansimun after an Indian tribe. In 1645 it was changed to Nansemond.

Isle of Wight, one of the original eight shires formed in 1634, and known originally as Warrasquake. In 1637 it was named in honor of a place in England.

Southampton, formed in 1684, from Isle of Wight, named in honor of Earl of Southampton.

Sussex, formed in 1753 from Surrey County, named in honor of Lord Sussex.

Surrey, formed in 1652 from James City County, named in honor of Lord Surrey.

Prince George, formed in 1702 from Charles City County, named in honor of Prince George, afterwards King George II.

Chesterfield, formed in 1748, from Henrico, named in honor of P. D. Stanhope, Lord Chesterfield.

This peninsula is situated on the south side of the James River, beginning at its mouth, and extending to "the falls "of that river which flows between Chesterfield and Henrico counties.

4. The "Richmond,"or "Chickahominy "Peninsula, containing two counties:

Charles City County, one of the original eight shires into which Virginia was divided in 1634, named in honor of Charles the First.

Henrico, one of the original eight shires into which Virginia was divided in 1634, named in honor of Henry, Prince of Wales.

This peninsula is on the north side of the James, and between that river and the Chickahominy. It begins at the mouth of the Chickahominy where that stream empties into the James, and extends to "the falls"of the latter river, which flows between Henrico and Chesterfield counties.

5. The next peninsula is known as "The Peninsula,"containing six counties:

Elizabeth City County, one of the original eight shires into which Virginia was divided in 1634, named in honor of queen Elizabeth.

Warwick, one of the original eight shires into which Virginia was divided in 1634, then called Warwick River, changed to Warwick in 1642, named in honor of Warwick in England.

York, one of the original eight shires into which Virginia was divided in 1634, then called Charles River, changed to York in 1642, named in honor of Duke of York.

James City County, one of the original eight shires into which Virginia was divided in 1634, named in honor of King James I.

New Kent, formed in 1654, from York, named in honor of. Kent in England.

Hanover, formed in 1720, from Now Dent, named in honor of George I, King of Hanover as well as England.

This peninsula begins at Hampton Roads and Chesapeake Bay, its southern boundary, thence up the James River to mouth of Chickahominy, where this stream empties into the latter river, thence up the northern bank of Chickahominy. Its eastern and northern boundary is the whole length of the south side of York River, thence up the Pamunkey, between that river and Chickahominy.

6. The "Gloucester Peninsula,"containing three counties:

Gloucester, formed in 1651 from a part of York, named in honor of Duke of Gloucester.

Mathews, formed in 1790, from part of Gloucester, named in honor of Governor Mathews. This county is a peninsula extending into the Chesapeake Bay, and united to the main land by a narrow neck of land. Its lands are so nearly on a dead level that there are no running streams of fresh water in the county. The grist mills are run by wind or tide power.

King and Queen County, formed in 1691, from New Kent, named in honor of King William and Queen Mary.

This peninsula lies between the York and Piankatank Rivers and Chesapeake Bay:

The "King William "or "Pamunkey Peninsula,"containing two counties:

King William, formed in 1701, from King and Queen, named in honor of William III. It lies between the Pamunkey and Mattaponi Rivers.

Caroline, formed in 1727 in the language of the act of the House of Burgess, "On the heads of Essex, King and Queen, and King William Counties,"named in honor of Princess Caroline Elizabeth. It lies between the North Anna and Rappahannock Rivers.

8. The "Middlesex Peninsula,"containing two counties:

Middlesex, formed in 1675, from Lancaster, named in honor of Middlesex in England.

Essex, formed in 1692, from part of "Old Rappahannock", named in honor of Earl of Essex.

Old Rappahannock County was formed in December, 1656, from part of Lancaster County. In the language of the ;t of Assembly: "The upper part of Mr. Bennetts land knowne by the name of Naemhock on the south side of the eastermost branch of Moratticock Creeke, on the north side the river be the lowermost bounds of the upper county. The lower county to retaine the name of Lancaster and the upper county to be named Rappahannock."

The territory embraced within what was termed in the act as the "Upper County"included Richmond County, on the north side of Rappahannock River, and Essex County on the south side of same river.

9. The "Northern Neck of Virginia,"now containing five counties:

Lancaster, formed in 1651, from Northumberland, named in honor of Lancaster in England.

Northumberland County, originally called Chickcoun, adjoining n Lancaster on the Chesapeake Bay. It originally comprised the whole "Neck of land between Rappahannock `and Potomac Rivers."

The date when this county was formed is in doubt; it certainly contained the first settlement or the whites north of Rappahannock River, within all the territory subsequently named "The Northern Neck of Virginia."At what date the first settlement was made there is not known. By an Act of Assembly in June, 1642, it was felony to settle outside of certain limits without permission of the governor and council. It provided "That the Rappahannock River should remain unseated for divers reasons therein contained, notwithstanding it should and might be lawful for all persons to assume grants for lands there,"etc. A similar act to that of June, 1642 was passed in 1647, but in October, 1648, it was reviation of Secacaconies, an Indian tribe once located on that stream. The first public official announcement of the name of Northumberland occurs in the 9th Act of Assembly, February, 1644-5, providing for the erection of three forts, viz.: one at "Pamunkey "(Nest Point), named Fort Royal, one at the "Falls of James River"(Richmond), named Fort Charles, and the third on the ridge at "Chicquohominie '' (near Bottoms Bridge), named Fort James, as follows: And be it explained and confirmed by the authorities that the associating counties on the south side of the river are hereby to contribute towards the maintainance of the (Indian) War on that side, without any expectation of any contribution from the north side, and so likewise on the north side by themselves including Northampton and Northumberland."From the above one would conclude it had been made a county at, or prior to 1644, but the writers of the early period, except Hening, were content with their own knowledge that Northumberland was but a "Plantation "in 1644-45. The earliest court records now in the clerk's office of that county are dated 1652. Some of the court records were burned many years ago, therefore it is not known what dates the records bore which were destroyed. The old books are bound with oak board backs, covered with heavy leather. They contain much of interest in the matter of curious wills, and surprising items relating to the sentences imposed by the courts for offenses (stated in the plainest words of the English language), which under the present day ruling of the courts would meet with less rigorous punishment.

Richmond County, formed in 1692, from old Rappahannock, named in honor of Duke of Richmond.

Westmoreland County, formed in 1653, from Northumberland, named after Westmoreland in England. The first mention of Westmoreland County is in an Act of Assembly of July, 1653, by which "It is ordered that the bounds of the County of Westmoreland be as follows, via.: from Machoactoke River, where Mr. Cole liven, and so upwards to the falls of the great river Pawtomake, above Nescostines towne."Nescostines towne referred to was probably a settlement of Indians at the place now known as "Anacostia,"on the Eastern Branch, now in the District of Columbia. Westmoreland County under this Act extended to "the falls of the Potomac,"which would include the territory now comprising the counties of King George, Stafford, Prince William, Fairfax and Alexandria.

King George County, formed in 1720, from Richmond County, named in honor of grog George I.

These five counties are formed within a peninsula, the southern and eastern boundaries being the mouths of the Rappahannock, and Potomac rivers.

Many persons include the County of Stafford in the present "Northern Neck of Virginia."To include this county would bring the Northern Neck opposite to the City of Fredericksburg, and beyond it to include the limits of the whole county. The city of Fredericksburg is in Spotsylvania County, and lies on the southern banks of the Rappahannock, at the "falls "of that river-the head of tidewater of that stream.

The original "Northern Neck of Virginia"distinguishes this peninsula as being once the seat of the largest individual land holdings ever in America. In 1661, Charles II, of England made a grant of land in America to Lord Hopton and others, which included: "All that entire tract, territory and parcel of land, lying and being in America, and bounded by and within the headwaters of the rivers Tappahannock alias Rappahannock, and Quiriough alias Potomac rivers, the course of the said rivers as they are commonly called and known by the inhabitants, and description of their parts and Chesapeake Bay."This was sold by the original patentees to Lord Culpeper in 1683, and later was confirmed to him by letters patent in the fourth year of the reign of James II, of England. The elder-Thomas 5th-Lord Fairfax, married the only daughter of Lord Culpeper. These lands descended to the son by this marriage-Lord Thomas Fairfax, Sixth Baron of Cambridge. He came to Virginia in 1739 to look after thin estate. This immense tract included the territory now comprising the counties of Lancaster, Northumberland, Richmond Westmoreland, Prince George, Stafford, Prince William, Fauquier, Fairfax, Loudon, Culpeper, Clarke, Madison, Page, Shenandoah and Frederick, in the present limits of the State of Virginia, and Hardy, Hampshire, Morgan, Berkeley and Jefferson now within the State of West Virginia; the whole estate comprising nearly 6,000,000 acres.

"It was said that the first grant was only intended to include the territory between the Rappahannock and Potomac rivers east of the Blue Ridge Mountains. When Fairfax discovered that the Potomac River headed in the Allegheny Mountains he went to England and instituted his petition in the Court of the Dings Bench for extending his grant into the, Allegheny Mountains, so as to include the territory now composing the counties of Page, Shenandoah, and Frederick, in Virginia, and Hardy, Hampshire, Morgan, Berkeley, and Jefferson, now in West Virginia. A compromise was effected between Fairfax and the Crown, in which it was stipulated that the holders of lands, under what then were called "Kings grants,"were to be quieted in their right of possession. Fairfax, under certain pretexts took it upon him self to grant away large quantities of these Crown granted lands to individuals other than those occupying or claiming them under the Crown grants, and thereby produced numerous lawsuits. His title was disputed on every hand. The northern boundary wan disputed by the Maryland proprietary, and his eastern and southern boundaries were disputed by many settlers upon it. On the Maryland side the question was which of the two head streams of the Potomac was intended to be the northern boundary of Lord Culpeper's purchase in 1683. In Virginia the dispute was concerning the grants to settlers east of the Alleghanies, and also as to which of the two head streams of the Rappahannock was the Fairfax limits: "The Conway " (confluent of the Rapidan), or the Rappahannock, between these being all the land now comprised by the counties of Culpeper, Madison and Rappahannock.

On a petition of Lord Fairfax, the King appointed a " Commission " for running out and marking the limits of his patent. The three Commissioners for the Crown were Colonel William Byrd, of Westover, John Robinson, and John Grymes. Lord Fairfax appointed William Fairfax, William Beverley and Charles Career. In 1746 an expedition of forty gentlemen, amongst whom were Beverley, Lomax, Lewis, Lightfoot, Hedginan, Peter Jefferson, and young George Washington, started from Fredericksburg to survey and define the boundaries of " The Northern Neck of Virginia." This expedition laid the " Fairfax Stone" at the head spring of the Potomac. Lord Fairfax opened an office in the county-Fairfax-which was named in his honor. There he granted out his lands until a few years thereafter when he removed to Frederick County, and settled at a place he called " Greenway Court," twelve or fourteen miles southeast of Winchester, where he led a sort of hermit life, and kept his office during the remainder of his life. He died December 12, 1781, soon after hearing of the surrender of Cornwallis at Yorktown. It is said that as soon as he learned of the capture of Cornwallis and his army, he called his servant to assist him to bed, observing: " It is time for me to die," and he never again left his bed until he was consigned to his tomb. His body was deposited under the Communion table in the then Episcopal church in Winchester.

The lands were granted by Fairfax in fee simple to his tenants, subject to an annual rent of two shillings sterling 'per hundred acres, added to which he required the payment of ten shillings sterling on each fifty acres, which he termed "composition money,"and which was to be paid upon the issuing of the grant. In 1785 the legislature of Virginia passed an Act, in which among other provisions, in relation to the Northern Neck, is the following: "And be it further enacted, that the land owners within the said district of the Northern Neck shall be forever hereafter exonerated and discharged from composition and quitrents, any law, custom or usage, to the contrary notwithstanding:"

The present limits of the Northern Neck of Virginia have earned a far greater distinction than that of its connection with the largest individual proprietorship of lands. Within its borders were born some of the most illustrious men, who were conspicuous in the shaping of the destinies of the American people. Of the seven Presidents of the United States who were born in Virginia, but two of them were born outside of the tidewater section: Thos. Jefferson, born in Albemarle County, and Zachary Taylor, born in Orange County. Of the remaining five Presidents, three were born in the Northern Neck of Virginia-George Washington, and James Monroe, both born in Westmoreland County, and James Madison, born in the adjoining county of King George. The other two PresidentsWilliam Henry Harrison, and John Tyler, were born in Charles City County. The Northern Neck of Virginia is greatly distinguished and honored as the birthplace of "Mary"(Ball), "The Mother of Washington,"born at "Epping Forest,"Lancaster County, in 1707. She died at Mt. Vernon, Fairfax County, August 25, 1789.

Westmoreland County was also the birthplace of the "Lees" "Light Horse Harry Lee,"and others of that family, including General "Robert E. Lee."

`The Northern Neck is the longest of all the peninsulas comprising Tidewater Virginia. It extends from the Chesapeake Bay shores to the head of tidewater, upon the Rappahannock River; a distance of more than 120 miles.

Tidewater Virginia extends beyond the confines of the counties named as being within the nine peninsulas herein mentioned. It also includes the five counties on the upper tidewater section of the Potomac River, to "the falls,"viz.:

Stafford, formed in 1675, from Westmoreland, named in honor of Lord Stafford.

Spotsylvania, formed in 1720, from Essex, Ding William and King and Queen, and named in honor of Alexander Spotswood, a Governor of Virginia.

Prince William, formed in 1730, from King George and Stafford, named in honor of William, Duke of Cumberland.

Fairfax, formed in 1742, from Prince William, named in honor of Lord Fairfax, the proprietor of the Northern Neck.

Alexandria County, was originally a part of Fairfax county, and was ceded to the United States, to become a part of the District of Columbia for the seat of the Federal Government. In 1846 it was retroceded to Virginia, and organized as a county.

These five counties are by some authorities assigned to the " Tidewater Divisions,"and by others they are classed as being in the " Middle Virginia "section. They are intersected by tidal streams through their lands, the greater part of which is on the fresh water section of tidewater.

The soil of Tidewater Virginia is variable in its formation and fertility. The lands at the mouths of the Potomac and Rappahannock Rivers are low, and composed mainly of sand and clay, devoid of stones or rocks. As the lands advance up the "Northern Neck,"there is evidence of pebbles, cobble stones, and finally a rocky formation appears upon their surface. On "the ridge "-the central region between the rivers, Rappahannock and Potomac-is found the least fertile of all its soils. Such is the case in all of the peninsulas, as one goes from the east to the west. On the ridges can be seen bare sand hills free from vegetation even during the season of verdure on the surrounding lands, and seamed into unshapely galleys by the rains and snows of centuries. In these sections can be found log cabins, and "slab" dwellings and outhouses, and "pine brush arbor cuppens "(shelters) for cattle. Fortunately there is but a small percentage of this character of land in old Virginia. Its loss of fertility is due mainly to the improvident and neglectful modes of cultivation practiced in the early years, by taking everything off the land and returning nothing to it. These poor lands when "turned out"grow good pine, and oak timber on the higher parts, and poplar and other woods in and around the galleys.

The lands on the sides of the ridges sloping gradually down to the rivers, present evidence of greater fertility, especially as they reach what is known as the "river bottom lands."These lower sections were early selected by the wealthiest planters, whose holdings were generally large, and whose dwelling houses were commensurate with their wealth and prosperity. Some of these old time dwelling houses are fine specimens of the architecture and splendor of their period. There are several of these old time dwellings yet standing along the James, York, Potomac and Rappahannock rivers. Among the number is "Stratford,"the birthplace of General Robert E. Lee, in Westmoreland County. This dwelling and many of the outhouses-former servants quarters-are built of brick, and are yet in a good state of preservation. From the upper part of this dwelling house a beautiful view can be had of the Potomac River, and surrounding streams, and woodlands. The original tract contained nearly 3000 acres. A part of it is yet in the possession of a descendant of the Ire family. There are no remains of the dwellings in which either Washington, Monroe or Madison were born. Along the James are Westover, Sherley, Lower Brandon and other several rivers. They are the tears of joy which trickle down the, mountain's face as it views from its high peaks the verdure, quiet, and beauty of its lowland offspring. The numerous streams throughout Tidewater Virginia can be made to produce as much wealth as can be produced from its lands. Oysters of the finest flavor, and fish of nearly every edible species are found in its waters. Many of these streams wind their tortuous way far into the interior of the many little peninsulas. They add a charm to the landscape as they sharply turn a point of land, and hide beyond it to appear again farther away. To follow them in their gambols, one has only to seek some high point of land and he is charmed by the sight which nature in her freak of jollity has bestowed to this section of America. The forests are composed mainly of pine, which always carry an emerald hue upon their boughs, and thus form a pleasing sight during the winter months in comparison with the harder woods which shed their leaves in autumn, and shiver in their bare limbs during the chilly winter, until spring in its compassionate mood grants them cover and makes them again things of beauty.

CHAPTER III

The Indians of Virginia

When America was discovered, there were at least three distinct conditions of life amongst the Indian tribes inhabiting North America. The least advanced tribes were those in the valley of the Columbia, in the Hudson Bay Territory, in parts of Canada, California, and Mexico. The use and art of pottery, and the cultivation of gardens, or fields were unknown to these tribes.

The second, or intermediate class lucre those who subsisted upon fish, game, and the products of a limited cultivation of the soil. Many of them lived in stockaded villages. Such were the tribes of Virginia and New England, and the Creeks, Choctaws, Shawnees, Miamis, and others east of the Missouri River, and certain tribes in Mexico.

The third class were the tribes who depended upon horticulture for subsistence, cultivating maize and plants by irrigation. They constructed joint tenement houses of adobe bricks and stone, and lived together in villages. Such tribes were found in New Mexico and Mexico.

The Indians whom the colonists first met in Virginia and with whop whom they lead to deal later on, were members of the Powhatan Confederacy, a part of the Algonquin stock whose tribes extended from Cape Hatteras to Newfoundland.

The Powhatan Confederacy inhabited the Virginia tidewater section from the sea coast westward to the falls of the rivers James, Rappahannock, and Potomac, extending into the tidewater section of Maryland as far north as the Patuxent River, and southward to Carolina. It was composed of between thirty and forty tribes, the far greater number of whom were women and children. Accidents incident to hunting wild animals, and the frequent warring between tribes decimated the ranks of the men. In the wars the women and children were usually taken captive to become a part of the victorious tribe.

Each of the tribes was governed by inferior kings-Werowances-who paid tribute from the products of the chase, and of the soil to the great chief, or emperor, called Powhatan, whose subjects they and all their tribe were to his will.

The Powhatan, known to history, was between sixty and seventy years of age when the first colony reached Virginia. He was tall and powerfully built, and able to endure much fatigue. He was a man of exceptional valor and judgment, though tyrannous in his commands, and cruel in his punishments. He caused the heads of those who offended him "to be laid upon the altar or sacrificing stone and their brains beaten cut with clubs;"others were tied to a tree, and their joints cut off with oyster or clam shells, and their skin scraped from their head and face, and their bodies ripped open and burned.¹ Powhatan lived in savage splendor surrounded by as many women as he willed: "whereof when he lieth on his bed one sitteth at his head, and another at his feet, but when he sitteth, one (woman) sitteth on his right hand and another on his left, when he dineth or suppeth, one of his women before and after meal, brought him water in a wooden platter to wash his hands. Another waiteth with a bunch of feathers to wipe them instead of a towel, and the feathers when he hath wiped are dried again. As he is weary of his women he bestows them on those that best deserve them at his hands."He was usually attended by a guard of forty or fifty of the tallest men found in his kingdom, and at night his dwelling place was guarded with sentinels who "every half hour shouted while shaking their lips with the fingers between."Part of the territory over which he ruled came to him by inheritance, the greater part by conquest. The rule of descent of his government was, upon his death, first to his brethren, and after that to his sisters, and then to the heirs, male or female of the eldest sister. In all his ancient inheritances he had houses built for his entertainment. Powhatan died in April, 1618, and was buried at the place known as Powhatan, on the James River.

The habitations of the Virginia Indians were built like arbors, of small young saplings bowed and tied, and covered with mats of rushes, or the barb of trees "very handsomely, that notwithstanding either wind, rain, or weather, they are warm as stoves, but very smoky, yet at the top of the house there is a hole made for the smoke to go into right over the fire."Houses were built in the midst of their fields or gardens, or by the river side, "not far distant from some fresh spring."The shell banks upon the shores of the tidewaters indicate the sites of the former Indian villages.

Their fire was kindled by friction by rapidly revolving between the palms of the hands a pointed stick pressed within a hole in a block of wood, surrounded by dry moss, or leaves: "Against the fire they lie on little hurdles of reeds covered with a mat, borne from the ground a foot or more by a hurdle of wood. On these round about the house they lie heads and points one by the other against the fire, some covered with mats, some with skins, and some stark naked lie on the ground, from 6 to 20 in a house"

The Indians lived chiefly by hunting, together with the products of the water, supplemented by the products of the soil which consisted mainly of corn and pumpkins, together with the roots of artichoke--Tochnough. An old writer said: "It is strange to see how their bodies alter with their diet, even as the deer and wild beast they seem fat and lean, strong and weak. Powhatan, their great king, and some others that are provident, roast their fish and flesh upon hurdles, and keep it until scarce times. If any great commander arrive at the habitation of a Werowance (king of a tribe), they spread a mat as do the Turks, for a carpet for him to sit upon. Upon another right opposite they sit themselves. Then do all with a terrible voice of shouting bid him welcome. After this do two or more of their chiefest men make an oration, testifying their love, which they do with such vehemency, and so great passions, that they sweat till they drop, and are so out of breath they can scarce speak. So that a man would take them to be exceeding angry, or stark mad. Such victual as they have, they spend freely, and at night where his lodging is appointed they set a woman fresh painted red with Pocones and oyle to be his bed fellow."

The men spent their time in fishing, hunting, and in warring upon one another, "scorning to be seen in any womanlike exercise, which is the cause that the women be very painfull, and the men idle"The women planted and tended the crops, pounded the corn, made mats, pots, baskets, and bore all the burdens of labor. The mothers were fond of their children and never punished them, hoping thereby they would grow to be brave and courageous. To make them hardy, they were bathed in the rivers during all seasons of the year, and their bodies painted and anointed with oils or grease.

Their clothing consisted of loose mantles of turkey feathers, or the skins of wild animals, and aprons of the same material bound about the lower body. The less provident were covered with mats of rushes, grass or leaves. Their feet in winter were covered with deer skins. The women tattooed their faces, breast, arms, and legs with shapes of beasts and serpents. In their ears some had holes to hang chains or bracelets. In these holes some wore a small green, or yellow snake, which lapped itself about their neck, often coming in contact with the lips of the wearers. Their heads and shoulders when in full dress were painted red with Pocone.

During the late fall and winter months, they left their habitations by the rivers and separating into companies of a hundred or more, they built arbors for shelter in the forests, and lived by hunting. During these journeys, the women carried all the supplies and built the shelters while the men hunted.

Their manner of hunting deer was to surround the drove with many fires, and betwixt the fires were stationed men who shouted and scared the animals into the circle, where they were chased by the hunters. Where it vas convenient and possible, the deer were driven into some narrow point of land and forced into the river where the hunters lay in wait in boats to shoot them with arrows, or to kill them with clubs.² The principal weapons of the Indians were clubs of hard knotty wood, or a atone sharpened at both ends and secured by deer thongs to a handle, swords from the horn o£ a deer put through a hole in a piece of wood in the form of a pickaxe, and the bow and arrows which all the tribes in North America carried. The arrows were made of straight, young: tough sprigs, headed with bone two or three inches long. These they use for hunting small game. The better sort were made of reeds pieced with wood, and headed with splinters of flinty stone, the spurs of a turkey, or the bill of some large bird, fastened thereon with glue made by boiling the tips of deer horns to a jelly. With the bow and arrow, their best shots could hit the mark on the level about forty yards, and their arrows could be shot at random about 120 yards by pointing well upward. For a knife, they used a piece of reed rubbed to a sharp point; with this implement they could unjoint a deer, shape the skin for moccasins or mantel, and for such other purposes.

The Indians deified all things which could harm them beyond prevention, as fire, water, lightning, thunder, winds.

Through God begetting feare,
Man's blinded minde did reare,
A hell God to the ghosts;
A heaven God to the hoasts;
Yea'. God unto the seas;
Fear did create all these."

Their chief God was fashioned after their own form, carved from wood, painted and adorned with such trinkets as they could make for him. He was kept in sacred houses remote from the resident villages, which priests and kings only were permitted to visit.

These houses were also the sepulchres of their kings whose bodies were first boweled, then dried, lapped in skins and rolled in mats, with their trinkets set at their feet in baskets. For ordinary burials, holes were dug in the earth with sharp stakes, and sticks placed therein on which the bodies were laid covered with skins or mats, and the graves filled with earth.

After the burial, the women painted their faces with charcoal and grease or oil, and mourned for twenty-four hours by turns crying and yelling to express their grief.³

The priests and conjurers mere selected from amongst those who as children were subjected to the yearly sacrifice of children, by being forced to run through a lane on which men were stationed on both sides with reeds, who beat each child as he was escorted therefrom by young men chosen for the purpose, after which they were kept nine months "in the wilderness " under the charge of the young men, "during which time they must not converse with any."Many of the children died from their wounds and exposure. This sacrifice was held to be so necessary, "that if omitted their Okee or Devil, and their other Gods would let them have no Deere, Turkies, Corne, nor fish:' Such ceremony as this was performed in 1608, by one of the tribes within ten miles of Jamestown.

"Their devotion was most in songs which the chief priest beginneth and the rest followed him, sometimes he maketh invocations with broken sentences by starts and strange passions, and at every pause the rest give a short groane."

They observed no day more sacred than another. They had solemnities in times of great distress of sickness or want of food, fear of enemies, times of triumph, and gathering of their harvests. At such times, they usually make a great fire, "and sing and dance about it with rattles and shouts together, four or five hours. Sometimes they set a man in the midst, and about him they dance and sing, he all the while clapping his hands, as if he would keep time, and after their songs and dancings ended they goe to their feasts."

The leading tribe of the Powhatan Confederacy was that from which the Pamunkey River takes its name. The chief of this tribe at the date of the final settlement at Jamestown was Opechancanough, the eldest brother of Powhatan, and his successor after his death. This chief was a man of remarkable skill and ability as a ruler. It was he who made the famous capture of Captain John Smith while hunting with his tribe up the Chickahominy River; and it was he who planned the massacre of the colony in 1622. His principal seat was on the peninsula, or point of land where West Point, King William County, is now situated, between the Mattaponi and Pamunkey rivers, at the head of York River, which these two streams form.

Notwithstanding Opechancanough's prowess as a warrior, and though surrounded by his whole tribe, Captain John Smith on the occasion of a visit to his seating place, to procure corn for the colony, when he discovered this chief was attempting to betray him, seized Opechancanough by the hair, and pointing a pistol at his head forced him before all his warriors to the humiliation of compelling his men to throw down their arms and load Smith's boats with corn. After the massacre of the whites, this chief was captured, and while a prisoner at Jamestown was basely shot and killed by one of his white guards.

Directly opposite "White House Landing,"where George Washington courted the widow Custis, who afterwards became his bride, is the Pamunkey Indian Reservation, known as "Indian Town."The settlement is about a mile east of the White House, across the Pamunkey River, distant about twenty-one miles east of Richmond City, immediately on the line of the York River division of the Southern Railway. It comprises about eight hundred acres, ceded to the tribe by the General Assembly of Virginia. About one-third of the reservation is good farming land; the remainder consists of woods and swamp, which up to a few years ago was well stocked with game, such as deer, raccoons, opossums, otter, muskrats, birds, turkeys, and wild geese and ducks in the fall and spring, during their migrations. Adjacent to the reservation are several large marshes in the Pamunkey River, which up to recent years were used as commons by these people for the hunt. These marshes are now held by the adjacent land owners who use them as private grounds, or rent them to associations, or clubs of city men, thus curtailing the privileges heretofore granted this tribe.

The writer, during a visit to this reservation in August, 1906, was informed by their chief, that the privilege heretofore granted of hunting upon the wooded lands of private property adjacent to their reservation is also curtailed, and because of these changes many of their young men seek employment outside the reservation, especially during the fishing season, in the Northern Lakes, and the sea coast and its adjacent waters. ""With the money saved in these employments,"said he, "they usually return here and build, or purchase dwelling houses for their use upon the lands allotted them."

Their chief occupations are hunting, fishing, and the cultivation of truck patches and corn for their own uses. They also find employment as guides to hunting and fishing parties around the Pamunkey and Mattaponi rivers and vicinities. In the autumn season sora are plentiful in the marshes of these inland rivers of Virginia. The Indian method of capturing sora at night is by building a bright fire in a "sora horse:' This implement is made of strips of iron fashioned in the form of a peach basket. They were formerly made of clay, like a deep platter. When in use, the "horse "is mounted on a pole which is stuck in the marsh or placed upright in the bateau. A fire of pine light wood knots is then kindled in the "horse."The bright flames attract the sora, and as they fly around it, the Indiana knock them down with paddles.

The reservation belongs to the tribe as a whole. There is no individual ownership of land. Improvements, such as houses, are individual property, to be bought and sold at pleasure. Land is allotted to each head of a family, to be his generally for life unless a new division is necessary to provide for others. The tribe is restrained by the terms of the grant from alienating the land. The reservation is not taxed by the State, but the chief presents an annual tribute of wild turkeys, geese, or ducks, to the Governor of Virginia. The State maintains a free school on the reservation !or the benefit of the Indian children. They receive no other aid from the State or National Government. The writer upon inquiry of their chief in August, 1906, was informed that there were one hundred and sixty-one members, men, women, and children belonging to the reservation. None but those of Indian blood are permitted to reside within its limits. They are quiet, orderly people and are all members of the one small frame Baptist church, where hangs the picture of Pocahontas above the pulpit. It is said there has been a considerable intermixture of white blood, and some little of the negro in the tribe, and that therefore because of the many intermarriages there is no member of full Indian blood.

Their present chief, George M. Cook, whose Indian name is "Cayatayita,"is dignified and genteel in appearance, and has the distinguishing marks of the Indian, in his copper-colored skin, and long, straight, black hair and eyes.

In his family he maintains the English Christian names, and the Indian names for each of his children, as given the writer:

English name.	Indian Name
T. O. Cook	Mina-Ha-Ha
Major T. Cook	Red Shirt
Otigney Pontiac Cook	Pontiac
George T. Cook	Iron Bull
Tecumseh Deerfoot Cook	Tecumseh
Captola Eulalia Cook	Captola
Theodora Cook	Minnie-Ha-Ha
Pocahontas Cook	Pocahontas

They know but few words of the ancient tongue of their forefathers. Their houses are frame, weather-boarded structures, one and a half or two stories high. They dress as the whites, but are fond of gaudy colors. They make some articles of clay which is found a few feet beneath the surface within the reservation. The writer was given several clay pipes fashioned in the form of tomahawks, moccasins, and hatchets. Another article of interest made of clay is the "pipe of joy." In the bowl of this pipe are five holes made fur the insertion of five stems, one for the chief and one for each of the four councilmen. The smoking of a pipe during a peace conference was an ancient custom amongst the Indians.

There is a ferry within nine or ten miles of the reservation known as "Piping Tree" Ferry. It is tradition that at this place the whites, and Indians of this tribe met and formed a treaty, and at its conclusion as usual, the pipe was passed from mouth to mouth for each to take a puff as evidence of good faith and friendship, after which the pipe was deposited in a hollow tree near by the river's side. In after time when disagreements arose because of the whites failing to live up to their agreement, the Indians would remind them of "pipe-in-tree."

At the date of settlement at Jamestown, in 1607, the Pamunkey tribe was the largest of all the several tribes composing the Powhatan Confederacy which dominated Tidewater Virginia, and it had to contend for its supremacy mainly with the two other great tribes who lived on the head waters of the three largest streams of Tidewater Virginia, namely, the Monocans who occupied the territory of the upper James River, beyond the falls, and the Mannahoacs who occupied the head waters of the Rappahannock and Potomac rivers.

The Pamunkey tribe is governed by a chief together with a council of four men. The chief was formerly elected for life, but now both chief and council are elected to serve four years, by vote of the male citizens of the tribe. When the election of a chief is to be had, the council names two candidates to be voted for. Those favoring candidate "Number 1" indicate their choice by depositing a grain of corn in the ballot box at the school house, while those who favor the election of candidate Number 2 "must deposit a bean in the same place. The candidate for whom the largest number of beans, or of grains of corn is cast is declared chosen.

The State of Virginia appoints five trustees who have the right of approval or disapproval of the Indian code of laws. The legislative and judicial powers are performed by the chief, together with the council. In the judicial proceedings the chief acts more the part of judge, and the council the part of jury. The chief and council try all the cases of infringements of the law, and settle all disputes between members of the tribe. Their jurisdiction extends to all cases arising on the reservation, and which concern only the residents thereon, with the exception of trial for homicide, in. which the offender would be arraigned before the County Court of King William County. The following extracts indicate something of their intelligence in law making:

"1st. Res. No member of the Pamunkey tribe shall intermarry with any Nation except White or Indian under penalty of forfeiting their rights in Town."

"5th. Anny party or person found guilty of stealing annything belonging to annyone else they shall pay the party for the amt. that are stolen from them and also shall be fined from $1 to $5. 3rd time they are to be removed from the place."

"9th. Be it known that all the citizens age 16 to 60 of Indian Town shall work on the road as far as red hill and anny member refuse to work shall be fined 75c. and Jacob Miles to be Road Master and he to be paid $1 pr year."

"14th. If anny person owning a piece of land and do not build and live upon it in 18 m it shall be considered as town property and the person shall be allowed 20 days to move what they has thereon off; then it shall be considered as Town Property and the Town can allow anyone else the same privilege under the above obligations."

"15th. Anny person that become rude and corrupt and refuse to be submissive to the Laws of Indian Town shall be removed by the Trustees, chief and councilmen."

"18th. An Amendment to Resolution all male citizens of Indian Town from 18 year upward shall pay $1.00 per year and until amt is paid they will not be given no land."

There are twelve or fifteen of the Chickahominy tribe living in Virginia, but they are too scattered to form a tribal organization.

CHAPTER IV

The Lost Colony of Roanoke

Before the first permanent settlement was made at Jamestown, Virginia, several prior attempts were made by the English to form permanent settlements in America; the most notable were those under the direction and through the aid of Sir Walter Raleigh. The history of these attempts to settle .in America are interesting stories of the aboriginal inhabitants, and of the adventures of the English who attempted to settle amongst them during these early periods. In 1578 Sir Humphrey Gilbert obtained letters patent to settle a colony in Newfoundland. He made another effort in 1583 and took possession of the harbor of St. Johns-Newfoundland.⁴

The next attempt was through Sir Walter Raleigh, half brother to Sir Humphrey Gilbert. This attempt was unsuccessful as the ships after a few days' sail had to return, owing to contagious sickness among the company and crew.

In 1584, Raleigh obtained letters patent from Queen Elizabeth for "discovering and planting any such Lands and Countries, as were not already in the actual possession of any Christian Nation." Sir Walter Raleigh persuaded "Gentlemen and Merchants "to join with him in this enterprise. Two vessels were provided and put under command of Captain Philip Amidas and Arthur Barlow. On April 27, 1584, they set sail from the Thames river, and on July 2, they reached the coast then known as "Florida."

As Virginia was first named through this expedition, some incidents in connection with this attempt at settlement are given from Stith's history of Virginia. "They (the English) landed at an island called Wococon "supposed to be Ocracock island, between Cape Hatteras and Cape Fear, N. C. "On the third day after landing they saw three natives in a canoe. One of them went ashore and waited without any signs of fear 'till the English rowed to him. He spoke much to them in his own language, and then went boldly aboard their vessels. They gave him a shirt, a hat, wine and meat, with which he was much pleased. Having attentively viewed everything he went away, and within half an hour he loaded his canoe with fish, which he brought and divided between the ship and Bark. The next day several canoes came, and in one of them the king's brother. His name was Granganameo, the King was called Wingina, and the country (was called by the English) Wingandacoa."

"Leaving his canoes he went to a point of land where the English had gone the day before. Having spread a mat, he sat down upon it; and when the English came to him well armed, he showed no fear; but made signs for them to sit down, stroking his own head and breast, and then theirs, to express his love.

"The natives were a proper, well proportioned people, very civil in their behavior and highly respectful to Granganameo. For none of them sat down, or spoke a word in his presence, except four; on whom the English also bestowed presents. But Granganameo took all from them, and made signs that everything belonged to him. After some small traffick he went away. Not long after he brought his wife and children. They were of mean stature but well formed, and very bashful and modest. His wife had a band of white coral about her forehead, and bracelets of pearl in her ears hanging down to her middle of the bigness of large peas, the rest were decked with red copper and such ornaments as are at present in fashion among Indians.

"After this, there came from all parts, great numbers of people, with leather, coral and divers kinds of dyes. But when Granganameo was present, none durst trade but himself and those who wore red copper on their heads, as he did. He was just to his promise, for they often trusted him, and he never failed to come within his day to keep his word.

He commonly sent the English every day a brace of bucks, conies, hares and fish, and sometimes melons, walnuts, sent live mats to cover them from the weather. In short, she omitted nothing that the most generous hospitality and hearty desire of pleasing could do, to entertain them.

"They returned to England about the middle of Sept., 1584, carrying with them two of the natives, Manteo and Wanchese.

"The Queen ( Elizabeth) herself was pleased to name the country 'Virginia' in memory of its having been first found in the reign of a Virgin Queen, or as some have been pleased to gloss and interpret it, because it still seemed to retain the Virgin Purity and Plenty of the first Creation, and the people their primitive innocence of life and manners."

When the English asked one of the Indians what was the name of his country, he not knowing what was meant, replied, "Wingandacoa: ' This sentence was in later years interpreted into English and found to mean "What pretty clothes you wear."

The next settlers to Virginia came under Sir Richard Grenville, from Plymouth, England, April 9, 1585. They chose Roanoke Island as their seating place (May 26, 1585). While in America they made discoveries south and north of Roanoke, going as far north as Elizabeth River (now in Virginia), where they visited a nation of Indians called Chesapeakes, after which tribe the Chesapeake Bay is named. These voyages were made hoping to discover an outlet to the South Sea. During these voyages they had skirmishes with the Indians provoked mainly by their own indiscretion. They burned an Indian town because one of the natives stole from them a silver cup. Among their atrocious murders was that of Wingina, the Indian King, who had been so generous and hospitable to the English of the former expedition. There were 108 persons in this expedition.

After undergoing much hardship and danger daring about 14 months' stay in America, they were returned at their own request by Drake to England, about the latter end of July, 1586. They carried home some tobacco, which probably was the first ever brought to England. It is said that owing mainly to Sir Walter Raleigh, tobacco was introduced into general use by the ladies and noblemen of the Court, to which the Queen ( Elizabeth) "gave great countenance and encouragement as a vegetable of singular strength and power which might benefit mankind."

There are two famous stories told concerning tobacco and Sir Walter Raleigh. He wagered with the Queen, that he could determine exactly the weight of the smoke which came out of a pipe of tobacco. This he did by first weighing the tobacco, and then carefully preserving and weighing the ashes; and the Queen readily granted that what was wanting in the prime weight must be evaporated in smoke. And when she paid the wager, she said pleasantly that she had heard of many laborers in the fire, that turned their gold into smoke, but Raleigh was the first who had. turned his smoke into gold. It is also related that a country servant of his, bringing him a tankard of ale and nutmeg into his study, as he was intently engaged. at his book, smoking a pipe of tobacco, became so frightened at seeing the smoke reek out of his master's mouth, that he threw the ale into his face, in order to extinguish the fire, and ran down stairs, alarming the family, and crying out his master was on fire, and before they could get up, he would be burned to ashes.

Not knowing the colonists were on their way to England, Sir Walter Raleigh sent a ship loaded with provisions for the settlement. After seeking the colony in vain the ship returned with all on board to England. About a fortnight after the departure of this ship (October, 1586 ), Sir Richard Grenville arrived with three ships, seeking the colony which he himself had seated (and which was returned home by Drake), and finding their habitation abandoned, in order to hold possession of the country, he landed fifty persons on the island of Roanoke, supplied with all provisions for two years. He thereupon returned to England. These fifty men were never afterwards found.

In 1587, three ships were sent under command of John White who was appointed Governor with twelve assistants as council under a Charter from Raleigh, incorporating them by the name of "The Governor and Assistants of the City of Roanoke, in Virginia,"with express directions to seat at Chesapeake, which they neglected to do. They reached Hatteras July 22 (1587) and went to Roanoke to look for the fifty men left there by Grenville, "but they found nothing but the bones of a man, and where the Plantation had been, the houses were undestroyed, but overgrown with weeds, and the fort defaced. Upon further search they learned that the colonists had been suddenly set upon by Wingina's men, and after a small skirmish, in which one of the Englishmen was slain, they retired to the water side, and having got their boat, and taken up four of their fellows gathering crabs and oysters, they went to a small island by Hatteras; that they staid there some time, but after departed they knew not whither."After some delay, White planted his colony on Roanoke Island.

At the earnest request of the colonists Governor White went to England to seek assistance there for his colony. He left about one hundred persons on one of the islands of Hatteras to form a plantation. Among those whom Governor White left in the Colony was his own daughter, wife to Ananias Dare, one of the Council, and mother of Virginia Dare, born at Roanoke island, August 13, 1587, the first white child born in the region then known as Virginia. This child and her parents are numbered with those of this second lost colony.

At the time Governor White reached England for assistance "the nation was in great commotion and apprehension of the Spanish Invasion and Invincible Armada."He succeeded in obtaining two small barks, but they were attacked at sea by the Spaniards and compelled to return to England. In the meantime Sir Walter Raleigh made an assignment of all his interest, title, or privilege, to several other gentlemen, for continuing the plantation in Virginia. On account of the invasion of the Spanish Armada, it was not until March, 1590, that White was able to get further assistance. At that date "he set sail with three ships from Plymouth, and passed by the West Indies. They staid some time there, to perform some exploits, which was to attack and plunder the Spaniards."They finally reached Hatteras: "There they descried a smoke, at the place where the colony had been three years before. The next morning they discharged some cannon to give notice of their arrival, they went ashore, but found no man nor signs of any, that had been there lately."They found engraved on a tree the word "Croatan,"but searched in vain for the place. They made further search on Roanoke Island and elsewhere, but finally started again for the West Indies in search of more Spanish plunder, basely deserting their friends and relatives of the Colony.

Sir Walter Raleigh after making his assignment sent five several times to Virginia to search for the lost colonists, but they were never seen nor heard of afterwards. Some of the Jamestown colonists on their voyage up the James River "saw a savage boy about the age of 10 years which ad a head of hair of perfect yellow, and a reasonable white skin, which is a miracle amongst all savages." Some of the Indians reported that they had seen whites in the South, but to this day the fact of the Roanoke settlers is not known.

CHAPTER V

The Founding of an English Nation in America

It was mainly through the efforts of Captain Bartholomew Gosnold that an attempt at colonization was made which resulted in making the final first permanent settlement in Virginia, he "having made former voyages (in 1602) to the northern parts of Virginia, and was so pleased with the places he saw, that he solicited all his friends and acquaintances to join with him in an attempt to settle that country."He finally "prevailed upon Capt. John Smith, Edward Maria Wingfield, Reverend Robert Hunt, and divers others to join with him in the undertaking." Several of the noblemen, gentry, and merchants joined in the enterprise. Letters patent were obtained from King James I, bearing date 10th of April, 1606, naming certain persons for the "Southern colony,"which settled in Tidewater Virginia, and certain other persons for the "Northern Colony,"which finally settled in New England.

"The Southern,"or "London,"Colony was designed for the city of London, and such as would adventure with them to discover and choose a place of settlement between the degrees of 34th and 41st parallels of latitude. "The Northern,"or "Plymouth,"Company, was appropriated to the cities of Bristol, Exeter, Plymouth, and the western parts of England, and all that would adventure with -them, to make their choice between the degrees of 38th and 45th parallels of latitude, provided there should be at least one hundred miles between the two colonies.

The Charter from James I, dated April 10, 1606, begins by naming certain "loving and well disposed subjects * * * * that we would vouchsafe unto them our license to make Habitation, Plantation, and to deduce a Colony of sundry of our people unto that Part of America either appertaining unto us, or which are not actually possessed by an Christian Prince or People"

It granted all the territory between the 34th and 45th degrees of north latitude, and all islands within one hundred miles of coast. The 34th to the 45th parallels extend from a short distance south of Columbia, S. C., to the dividing line between what we know as Vermont and Canada. The strip from the 38th to the 41st parallels, comprising between the mouth of the Potomac to the southern end of Long Island Sound, was embraced in the charters of both the Southern and Northern Companies, and was thus open to settlement by both. Conflict of jurisdiction was avoided by the proviso that neither colony should establish within one hundred miles of any actual occupancy by the other. Half of this territory could be secured to the first who settled upon it and yet there would be one hundred miles left. The actual settlement of the Jamestown colony was begun near the 37th parallel, while the Plymouth colony first settled at the 42nd parallel.

The Companies were to be governed each by a Council of thirteen persons resident in England. There was likewise to be a council in each colony to govern according to the laws, ordinances and instructions of the King,-he to appoint the Royal Council in England. They had the power to work mines, paying the King one-fifth of the gold and silver, and one-fifteenth of the copper mined. They had the power to coin money, and to levy duty on King's subjects trading with them.

The Council in England was empowered to name the Council to reside in Virginia. The President and Council in Virginia were constituted the supreme tribunals in all cases.

May 23, 1609, a second charter was granted to the London (Virginia) Company, by which it became an entirely distinct corporate body, and was under the management of a Special Royal Council in England, which included individual and corporate bodies of wealth and power.

By it the power which had formerly been reserved to the King was transferred to the Company-the power of choosing the Supreme Council in England, and also of legislating for the colony. It became a corporate body known as the "Treasurer and Company of Adventurers and Planters of the City of London for the First Colony in Virginia."The incorporators were fifty city companies of London, and nearly 700 persons, of whom there were knights, peers, ministers, doctors, esquires, gentlemen, captains, merchants, and others.

It gave the company "all those Lands, Countries, and Territories situate, lying and being in that part of America called Virginia, from the Point of Land called Cape or Point Comfort, all along the sea coast to the Northward 200 miles, and from said Point of Cape Comfort, all along the Sea Coast to the Southward 200 miles, and all that space and circuit of Land, lying from the Sea Coast of the Present aforesaid, up into the land, throughout from Sea to Sea, West and North West, and all the islands lying within 100 miles along the coast of both Seas of the Precinct aforesaid."

This charter extended the limits of Virginia to the Pacific Ocean. It embraced the entire northwest of North America; granting 400 miles along the coast-200 miles each way from Old Point Comfort. It supplanted the former president and council, and provided a governor and council instead, and gave them full power to correct, punish, pardon, govern and rule "all subjects as shall adventure in any voyage, or shall inhabit on the Precincts of the said Colony."

A third Charter by James I, dated March 12, 1612, confirmed and enlarged the privileges which had been granted under former charters, and extended the territory and jurisdiction to all islands and settlements withing 300 miles of the coast of the main land. This added the Bermuda islands, which were soon thereafter sold to some of the members of the Company.

The colony when first started was a "proprietary "enterprise, and so continued until the second charter-1609-when it became a "corporation," and so continued under its third charter until the year 1624, when the corporation or company was declared null and void, the corporation dissolved, and the colony placed under the Royal Government of the King of England, and so it continued as "a Royal Province,"until the Revolution, with the exception of the period when it was attempted to grant the whole of Virginia for a period of thirty-one years to a few of the favorites of the Crown, and the period during the short interval of Cromwell's reign.

On December 19, 1606, the colonists, composed of men and boys left Blackwalls, England, in three small ships, the Susan Constant, Godspeed and Discovery to make their future home in the wilds of America. They were detained on the coast of England by contrary winds about six weeks. Their voyage to America was by the southern route.

"Your course securely steer,
West by south forth keep,
Rocks, lee shores, nor shoals
Where Eolus scowls,
You need not fear,
So absolute the deep."

"And cheerfully at sea
Success you still entice
To get the pearl and gold
And ours to hold
Virginia,
Earth's only Paradise."

The voyage was long and tedious, consuming more than four months from the start at Blackwalls to the landing at the Capes of Virginia, April 26, 1607.

Thomas Studley, one of the "Gentlemen "colonists gives the following list of "names of the first planters left in Virginia,"when Captain Newport returned to England, June 15, 1607.

Edward Maria Wingfield, Capt. John Radcliffe, Capt. John Martin, Capt. Bartholomew Gosnold, Capt. John Smith, Capt. George Kendall. These were the council appointed by the London Company. Winfield was selected as President by this Council for a year.

Mr. Robert Hunt, Preacher.

Those listed as "Gentlemen "were George Percie, Anthony Gosnall, Capt. Gabriell Archer, Rob. Ford, William Bruster, Dru Pickhouse, John Brooks, Thos. Sands, John Robinson, Ustis Colovill, Kellam Throgmorton, Nathaniel Powell, Robt. Beberbland, Jeremy Alicock, Thos. Studley, Richard Crofts, Nicholas Houlgrave, Thos. Webbe Jno. Walco, Wm. Tankard, Francis Scarsborough, Edward Brooks, Rich. Dixon, Jno. Martin, Cxeo. Martin, Anthony Gosnold, Thos. Wotton, Surg. Thos. Gore, Francis Midwinter.

The Carpenters were:

Wm. Laxon, Edward Pising, Thos. Emery, Rob. Small.

The others were listed as follows: Anas Todkill, Jno. Capper, (no occupation indicated).

James Read, blacksmith; Jonas Profit, sailor; Thos. Cooper, barber; John Herd, bricklayer; Edward Printo, mason; William Love, tailor; Nic Skol, drum.

The laborers were: John Laydon, Win. Cassen, Geo. Cassen,⁵ Thos. Casson, Wm. Rods, Wm. White, Ould Edward, Henry Tauin, Geo. Golding, Jno. Dods, Win. Johnson, Will Unger.

Will Wilkinson, Surgeon.

The boys were: Sam'1 Collier, Nat. Pocock, Richard Mullin, Jas. Brumfield.

Studley ends the list with the statement that there were "divers others to the number of 105."

They were accompanied by between forty and fifty sailors, who were the crews of the three ships.

When the colonists embarked upon their journey, they knew not who would be their rulers in the new world. They only knew the expedition was to be in charge of Capt. Newport until Virginia was reached. Sealed orders from the Company naming the first president and council for the colony were given Newport. The evening of their arrival within the Capes of the Chesapeake, the box containing the orders was opened and read, and no doubt great surprise was manifested by some upon reading the name of Capt. John Smith as one of the first Council. During the voyage he had been accused of mutiny by Wingfield and others, and had since then been a prisoner. His trial took place after the colony was established at Jamestown. He was honorably acquitted and his accuser ordered to pay him a large sum of money, which Smith refused to accept for his personal use, and donated to the colony.

The size of the ships in which these colonists ventured across the wide Atlantic Ocean, indicates the meagre accomodations of the colonists during the four months cruise. A vessel's tonnage is estimated as 100 cubic feet to the ton, a little less in size than a cord of wood which is 128 cubic feet.

The tonnage and capacity of each of the three ships were as follows "Susan Constant,'"100 tons burden, capacity to hold 78 cords of wood.

"Godspeed"40 tons burden, capacity to hold 31 cords of wood.

"Discovery,"20 tons burden, capacity to hold 151/2 cords of wood.

Few sailors of the present day would have the temerity to attempt to cross the Atlantic ocean in a vessel of but 20 tons burden.⁶

An interesting account of this memorable expedition was written by George Percy, or Pereie, a brother of the Earl of Northumberland, in whose honor a county in the Northern Neck of Virginia was named. He was a member of this first expedition to form a permanent settlement. When Captain John Smith returned to England in 1609, Percy was president in his stead, which office he held during "The Starving Time," in 1610, and later was Lieutenant-Governor. The history of the colony during the days they were seeking a final seating place can best be told in his own recital of those events.

He described the voyage to Virginia as beginning on Saturday, Dec. 20, 1606, (other writers, Dec. 19), "the fleet fell from London, and the first of January we anchored in the Downer but the winds continued contrarie so long, that we were forced to stay there some time."He gives an interesting description of the places where the fleet stopped en route to Virginia, and the habits of the aborigines whom the colonists met, and with whom they exchanged trinkets for food. They left the West Indies on the tenth of April, and all went well with the fleet until "the one and twentieth day about five a clocke at night there began a vehement tempest, which lasted all the night, with winds, raine, and thunders in a terrible manner. Wee were forced to lie at Hull (bare poles) that night because wee thought wee had beene neerer land than wee were."The next three days they sounded the lead for land "but wee could find no ground at a hundred fathom."

"The sixth and twentieth day of Aprils, about fours a clock in the morning, wee descried the Land of Virginia; the same day wee entered into the Bay of Chesupioc directly, without let or hinderance; there wee landed and discovered a little way, but we could find nothing worth speaking of, but faire meddowes and goodly tall Trees, with such Freshwaters running through the woods, as I was almost ravished at the sight."

"At night, when wee were going aboard, there came the Savages creeping up on all foures, from the Hills like Beares, with their Bowes in their mouthes, charged us very desperately in the faces, hurt Captaine Gabrill Archer in both his hands, and a sayler (named Mather Morton) in two places of the body very dangerous. After they had spent their Arrowes, and felt the sharpnesse of our shot, they retired into the Woods with great noise, and so left us."

The first settlers probably cast their first anchor in Virginia waters some two or three miles westward of the present location of Cape Henry Light House, within the Chesapeake Bay, and nearly on a south line with the inland waters of what is now known as Broad Bay, end its adjoining waters, known as Lynn Haven Bay. This latter named place lies directly south of this anchorage, some seven or eight miles, where on the second day of their arrival they "marched 8 miles up into the land and came to a place where the Indians had beene newly a roasting oysters."

On April 29, 1896, the Association for the Preservation of Virginia Antiquities put upon the old light house at Cape Henry a bronze tablet with these words upon it:

"Near this spot landed April 26, 1607, Capt. Gabriell Archer, Hon. Geo. S. Percy, Christopher Newport, Bartholomew Gosnold, Edward Maria Wingfield, with 25 others, who calling the place Cape Henry, planted a cross April 29, 1607.

"Del gratis Virginia condita,"

The "Savages" who gave the colonists this ungracious reception were of the (Chesapeake) Chesupioc tribe whose seat was near the head waters of Lynn Haven Bay. Their hostility was no doubt induced by the belief that the colonists were of the same class of white men who had made prior visits to these shores:⁷

"The seven and twentieth day we began to build up our Shallop: the Gentlemen and Souldiers marched eight miles up into the Land, we could not see a Savage in all that march, we came to a place where they had made a great fire, and had beene newly a roasting Oysters: when they perceived our coming, they fled away to the Mountaines, and left many of the oysters in the fire: we eat some of the oysters, which were very large and delicate in taste."

"The eighth and twentieth we launched our Shallop, the Captaine and some Gentlemen went in her, and discovered up the Bay, we found a River (Lynn Haven Inlet) on the South side running into the Maine; we entered it and found it very shoal water, not for any Boats to swim: Wee went farther into the Bay, and saw a plaine plot of ground where we went on Land, and found the place five mile in compass, without either Bush or Tree, we saw nothing there but a Cannow, which was made out of the whole tree, which was five and fortie feet by the Rule. Upon this plot of ground we got good store of Mussels and Oysters, which lay on the ground as thick as stones: wee opened some, and found in many of them Peerless. We marched some three or four miles further into the Woods, where we saw great smoakes of fire. We marched to those smoakes and found that the Savages had been burning down the grass, as wee thought either to make their plantation there, or else to give signs to bring their forces together, and to give us battel. We past through excellent ground of Flowers of divers kinds and colours, and as goodly trees as I have ever seen, as Cedar, Cypresse, and other kindes, going a little further we came into a little plat of ground full of fine and beautiful Strawberries, foure times bigger and better than ours in England. All this march we could neither see Savage nor Towne."

The same evening towards dusk while attempting to enter James River they struck "Willoughby Spit,"the eastern end of Hampton Roads, where they "found shallow water for a great way,"which put them out of all hopes for getting any higher with their ships, which then "road at the mouth of the River."

They rowed to a point of land on the opposite side of Hamton Roads, where they found a channel "with 6, 8, 10, or 12 fathom ,"which put us in good comfort. Therefore we named that point of Land Cape Comfort."This is now known as "Old Point Comfort,"situated at the entrance to Hampton Roads.

"The nine and twentieth day we set up a crosse at Chesupioc Bay, and named the Cape Henry.

The colonists brought their ships into the James River and were the invited guests of the Indians to a feast, a dance, and a "smoker,"at the village of Kecoughtan, now the town of Hampton. Here the colonists for the first time came in friendly contact with their new neighbors, and witnessed many strange things. To men reared in the civilized precincts of London, these must have been novel scenes.

The thirtieth day, we came with our ships to Cape Comfort; where we saw five Savages running on the shoare; presently the Captaine caused the Shallop to be manned, so rowing to the shoare, the captaine called to them in signe of friendship, but they were at first timersome until they saw the Captaine lay his hand on his heart: upon that they laid down their Bowes and Arrowes, and came very boldly to us, making signes to come a shoare to their Towne, which is called by the Savages Kecoughtan (now Hampton). Wee coasted to their Towne, rowing over a River running into the Maine, where these Savages swam over with their Bowes and Arrowes in their mouthes.

"When we came to the other side, there was a many of other Savages which directed us to their Towne, where we were entertained by them very kindly. When we came first a Land they made a doleful noise, laying their faces to the ground, scratching the earth with their miles. We did thinke that they had beene at their idolatry. When they ended their Ceremonies they went into their houses and brought out mats and laid upon the ground, the chiefest of them sate all in a rank: the meanest sort brought us such dainties as they had, and of their bread which they make of their Maiz or Genne wheat, they would not suffer us to eat unlesse we sate down, which we did on a Mat right against them. After we were satisfied they gave us of their- Tobacco, which they tooke in a pipe made artificially of earth as ours are, but far bigger, with the bowie fashioned together with a piece of fine copper. After they had feasted us, they shewed us, in welcome, their manner of dancing, which was in this fashion: one of the Savages standing in the midst singing, beating one hand against mother, all the rest dancing about him, shouting, howling, and stamping against the ground, with many anticke tricks and faces, making noise like so many Wolves or Devils. One thing of them I observed; when they were in their dance they kept stroke with their feet just one with another, but with their hands, faces, and bodies, with another, but with their hands, heads, faces, and bodies, every one of them had a severall gesture: so they continued for the space of an houre. When they had ended their dance, the Captaine gave them Beades and other trifling Jewells. They hang through their eares Fowles legs: they shave the right side of their heads with a shell, the left side they wcare of an ell long tied up with an artificial knot, with a, many of Foules feathers sticking in it. They goe altogether naked, but their privities are covered with Beasts skinnes beset commonly with little bones, or beasts teeth: some paint their bodies blacke, some red, with artificiall knots of sundry lively colours, very beautifull and pleasing to the eye, in a braver fashion than they in the West Indies."

Notwithstanding this hospitable welcome and generous entertainment by these Indians to the white strangers, Sir Thomas Gates in 1610 drove all this tribe from Kecoughtan (Hampton), and took their lands for the use of a colony which he settled there.

Aside from St. Augustine, Florida, and Santa Fe, New Mexico, Hampton is the oldest continuous settlement of a town in America.

The colonists next met with the king of Paspiha who lived in what is now James City County, and who later gave the colonists the land of Jamestown. While in his company the king of Rappahanna, hearing of the strangers, came in his canoe to extend an invitation to them to visit his town. They visit the king next day, and for the first time in the new world, as they heard an Indian playing a flute, and they learned much of the customs of their new neighbors during this visit.

"The fourth day of May, we came to the King or Werowane of Paspihe: where they entertained us with much welcome: an old Savage made a long Oration, making a foule noise, uttering his speech with a vehement action, but we knew little what they meant. While we were in company with the Paspihes, the Werowance of Rappahanna came from the other side of the River in his Cannoa: he seemed to take displeasure at our being with the Paspihes : he would faine have had us come to his Towne, the Captaine was unwilling: seeing that the day was so far spent he returned backe to his ships for that night."

"The next day, being the fifth of May, the Werowance of Rappahanna sent a Messenger to have us come to him. We entertained the said Messenger, and gave him trifles which pleased him: Wee manned our shallop with Muskets and Targatiers sufficiently; this said Messenger guided us where our determination was to goe. When we landed, the Werowance of Rappahanna came downe to the water side with all his traine, as goodly men as any I have scene of Savages or Christians; the Werowance coming before them playing on a Flute made of a Reed, with a Crown of Deare's haire, colloured red, in fashion of a Rose fastened about his knot of haire, and a great Plate of Copper on the other side of his head, with two long Feathers in fashion of a paire of Hornes placed in the midst of his Crowne. His body was painted all with ,Crimson, with a Chaine of Beads about his necke, his face painted blew, besprinkled with silver Ore as we thought (mica dust probably), his cares all behung with Braslets of Pearle, and in either care a Birds Claw through it beset with fine Copper or Gold, he entertained us in so modest a proud fashion, as though he had beene a Prince of Civill government, holding his countenance without laughter or any such ill behaviour; he caused his Mat to be spred on the ground, where bee sate downe with a great Majestic, taking a pipe of Tobacco: the rest of his company standing about him. After he had rested awhile he rose, and made signos to us to come to his Towne. Hee went formost, and all the rest of his people and ourselves followed him up a steepe Hill where his Palace was settled. We passed through the Woods in fine paths, having most pleasant Springs which issued from the Mountains: We also went through the goodliest Corne fielder that there ever seene in any countrey. When we came to Rappahannas Towne, he entertained us in good humanitie."

The chief of the Appomattox tribe who lived at what is now Bermuda Hundred, Chesterfield County, bade them defiance, demanding their business upon his territory and desired that they should be gone, but at last permitted their " landing in quietness."

" The eight of May wee discovered up the River. We landed in the countrey of Apamatica, at our landing, there came many stout and able Savages to resist us with their Bowes and Arrowes, in a most warlike manner, with the swords at their backes beset with sharpe stones, and pieces of iron able to cleave a man in sunder. Amongst the rest one of the chiefest standing before them crosse legged, with his Arrow readie in his Bow in one hand, and taking a Pipe of Tobacco in the other, with a bold uttering of his speech, demanded of us our being there, willing us to bee gone. Wee made signs of peace, which they perceived in the end, and let us land in qnietnesse."

They were almost determined to settle at Archers Hope, but finally decide upon a point of land which they afterwards named Jamestown.

"The twelfth day we went backe to our ships, and discovered a point of Land, called Archers Hope, which was sufficient with a little harbour to defend ourselves against an enemy. The soile was good and fruitfull, with excellent good Timber. There are also stores of Vines in bignesse of a mans thigh running up to the tops of the Trees in great abundance. We also did see many Squirrels, Conies, Black Birds with crimson wings, and divers other Fowles and Birds of divers and sundrie colours of crimson."

"We found store of Turkee nests and many Egges, if it had not beene disliked, because the ship could not ride neere the shoare, we had settled there to all the Collonies contentment."

The thirteenth day, we came to our seating place in Paspihans Countrey, some eight miles from the point of Land, which I made mention before; where our shippes doe lie so neare the shoare that they are moored to the Trees in six fathom water."

The fourteenth day they completed the landing of men and stores and set to work building fortifications "which they did not finish until the middle of June following.

Thus began at Jamestown on May 14th, the first permanent settlement of English speaking people upon the continent of America, and with this small beginning, and upon this small plot of ground sprang the first aspirations for the freedom which culminated in our present form of government.

They took possession of this land without leave, or license, other than their doubtful chartered authority from the King of England, notwithstanding the lands were occupied by a nearby tribe, known as the Paspihas, whose chief or king generously sent them word by his messengers, who were gorgeously decorated by him for the occasion, that he was coming to visit his white neighbors, and bring them a fat deer and be merry with them.

When he last met them, on May 4th, he did not know they would settle upon his lands, nevertheless it does not appear that he objected, for on the fourth day after their seating, Paspiha came to Jamestown accompanied by one hundred of his scantily clothed warriors, but each of them gorgeous with feathers, and paint, to make merry with the whites. The colonists mistrusted the object of the visit because they came armed and instead of making merry with him and his followers, they soon quarreled with one of his men, and beat him severely because he picked up one of their hatchets, perhaps from curiosity. Their treatment so disgusted Paspiha that he"went suddenly away with all his company in great anger."Before leaving, however, he "made signes that he would give as much land as we would desire to take."Two days later he sent them a deer. A trick was played upon one of the Indians who came with the deer, by one of the whites setting up a target of wood through which he boastfully shot his arrow; they next set up a target of steel, and upon shooting again he "burst his arrow all to pieces," at which he was so maddened that he drew another arrow and "bit it in his teeth, and seemed to be in a great rage, so he went away in great anger."

This hospitable Savage subsequently, at the instigation of Powhatan, and because of some injustice inflicted upon his tribe by the colonists, laid in wait at the glass house near Jamestown for the purpose of assassinating Captain John Smith. On this occasion, Paspiha nearly succeeded in drowning Smith, but the latter finally conquered the Indian, and was upon the point of running his sword through him, when the savage begged piteously for his life. Smith forced him to march to Jamestown, where he was put in prison, but in a few days he effected his escape.

In 1610, the colonists under Lord Delaware drove the tribe of Paspiha off their lands, burnt their houses, took the wife and children of this chief prisoners and slew them.⁸

The Colony selected an inland seating place according to " Instructions." The colonists overlooked and passed by regions of plenty, where the lands were fertile, and the forests were filled with wild game, and the salt waters teemed with the bounteous stores of nature, and seated instead upon a barren island where the surrounding waters were neither salt nor .fresh. They doubtless were guided in their selection of this seating place by their " Instructions " from the Company, "to be followed on landing."

Where it shall please God to send you on the Coast of Virginia, you shall do your best endeavour to find out a safe port in the entrance of some navigable river, making choice of such a one as runneth farthest into the land. When you have made choice of the river on which you mean to settle, be not hasty in loading your vituals and munitions, but first let Captain Newport discover how far that river may be found navigable, that you make selection of the strongest, most wholesome and fertile place, for if you make many removes, besides loss of time, you shall greatly spoil your vituals and your casks.

"But if you choose your place so far up as a bark of 50 tons will float, then you may lay all your provisions ashore with ease, and the better receive the trade of all the countries about you in the land, and such a place you may perchance find a hundred miles from the rivers mouth, and the further up the better, for if you set down near the entrance, except it be in some island that is strong by nature, an enemy that may approach you on even ground may easily put you out; and if he be driven to seek you a hundred miles the land in boats, you shall from both sides of the river where it is narrowest, so beat them with your muskets as they shall never be able to prevail against you.

"Neither must you plant in a low or moist place, because it will prove unhealthful. You shall judge of the good air by the people, for some part of the Coast where the lands are low have their people blear eyed, and with swollen bellies and legs, but if the naturals be strong and clean made it is a sign of a wholesome soil."

Jamestown Island, the final seating place, and the first capital of the colony,⁹ lies on the north side of James River, in James City County, within the Tidewater Division known as " The Peninsula," about thirty-two miles from the mouth of the river. It averages two and a half miles in length and three-quarters miles in breadth-about 1,700 acres. It is surrounded on three sides by James River, and on the north side by Back River, which separates it from the mainland. The island itself, and the surrounding country contains little evidence of the struggles of its early inhabitants. There is standing the ruins of the brick church; a lonely monument to the drudgery, the toil, and the labors of the ninety-one years spent by the colonists in their endeavors to build up and maintain a capital city.¹⁰

It was in the " Peniusula Division" of Tidewater Virginia that the colonists laid their greatest hardships and struggles, and the most depressing as well as the most successful and joyous periods of their early history as a colony. It was while Jamestown was the seat of government that they experienced all the sensations of famine, disease, despair, and massacre by the savage natives, to which was added civil war amongst themselves through Bacon's rebellion which destroyed many homes and made the town a waste place.

Captain John Smith in one of his narratives, describes the first days of settlement upon Jamestown island: "When I went first to Virginia, I well remember we did hang an awning which is an old sail to three or four trees to shadow us from the sun; our walls were rails of wood, our seats unhewed trees till we cut planks; our pulpit a bar of wood nailed to two neighboring trees; in fine weather we shifted into an old rotten tent, for we had no better. The best of our houses were of the like curiosity but for the most part, much worse workmanship that neither could well defend wind or rain."

The great abundance which the colonists found in their new home was described by George Percy, one of the gentlemen colonists in his letter relative to the James River:

This river which we have discovered is one of the famousest Rivers that ever was found by any Christian, it ebbes and flower a hundred and three score miles where ships of great burthen may harbour in safetie. Wheresoever we landed upon this River, we saw the goodliest Woods as Beach, Oke, Cedar, ¹¹ Cypress, Walnuts, Sassafras, and Vines in great abundance which clusters on in many Trees, and all the grounds bespread with strawberries, mulberries, Rasberries, and Fruits unknowne, there are many branches of this River which runne flowing through the Woods with great plentie of Fish of all kinds, as for Sturgeoon, all the World cannot be compared to it. There is also a great store of Deere both Red and Fallow. There are Bearer, Foxes, Otters, Beavers, Muskrats, and wild beasts unknowne." Notwithstanding this great abundance, the colonists during their first few years of settlement suffered much for want of food. This was due to the fact that the greater number of them were unfitted by experience, or inclination, to the new surroundings. The majority of them was brought up in cities or towns of England, with no experience in rural life. Many of them were registered as gentlemen-a class between the nobles and peasants,-some of wham were too proud to work and too poor to live without labor. Others were named as mechanics or laborers, but none were experienced in woodcraft, nor in the labors of rural life, nor as sailors nor fishermen.¹²

When Smith became president, he put the gentlemen and others to work. He told them " the sick shall not starve, but equally share of all our labours, and every one that gathereth not every day as much as I doe, the next daie shall be set beyond the river and be banished from the fort and live there or starve."

One of the colonists, himself a gentleman no doubt, describes the pleasure, and recreation which some of the gentlemen colonists who came with the second expedition to Jamestown, had in chopping trees in the woods under the chosen direction of Captain Smith.

"Amongst the rest he (Smith) had chosen Gabriel Beadell and John Russell, the only two gallants of this last supply, and both proper gentlemen; strange were these pleasures to their conditions, yet lodging, eating, drinking, working, or playing they doeing but as the President, all these things were carried on so pleasantly as within a weeke they became masters (proficient), making it their delight to hear the trees thunder as they fell, but the axes so oft blistered their fingers that every third blow had a loud oath to drowne the echo, for remedy of which sin the President devised how to have every man's oath numbered, and at night for every oath to have a can of water poured down his sleeve, with which every offender was so washed (himself and all) that a man should scarce hear an oath in a week."

Sir George Percy wrote more of conditions at Jamestown:

"Our men were destroyed with ceverell diseases as Swellings, Fluxes, Burning Fevers, and by Warres, and some departed suddenly, but for the most part they died of famine. There were never Englishmen left in a foreign Countrey in such miserie as wee were in this new discovered Virginia. Our food was but a small can of Barlie sod in Water to five men a day, our drinke cold water taken out of the River, which was at a flood verie salt, at a low tide full of slime and filth, which was the destruction of our men. Thus we lived for a space of five months in this miserable distress. It please God, after a while, to send these people which were our mortall enemies to relieve us with victuals, as Bread, Corne, Fish and Flesh in great plentie, * * * otherwise we had all perished."

Out of 105 colonists living in June, 1607, sixty-seven died during the following six months. Out of the total of more than 14,000 persons who came to Virginia, from the years 1607 to 1622, only 1,258 were surviving at the time of the Indian massacre by Opechancanough, in 1622. This massacre reduced the colony from 1,258 persons to 911, who survived it.

They drank the briny, sickening waters from the James River for more than twelve months before digging a well. Their failure to guard and take care of their ship's cargo of food resulted in its destruction by decay and by rats, and their consequent starvation followed. They paid little or no attention to sanitary precautions within the town, and diseases followed their neglect. They were totally lacking in the experiences required in their new surroundings.

CHAPTER VI

Captain John Smith

Of the whole number who adventured among the first few colonists to Virginia, Captain John Smith appeared to be the one best fitted to the hardships and dangers which befell them during these first years of settlement. His past experience as a sailor, a soldier, and a traveler in foreign lands, and his undaunted courage and daring, and ready wit were the qualities of manhood most needed in the new world at that period.

The greater number of those who adventured during the first few years of the settlement were born and raised in the English cities or towns. They knew not how to accommodate themselves to the new and rough life incident to the pioneer in such an enterprise. They were ignorant of woodcraft, and could "neither fish nor cut bait,"else they should not have starved in this region where the waters, and the forests teemed with great abundance of food.

On the voyage from England, Smith was accused of insubordination by Wingfield, who later was the first President of the colony. Smith was placed under guard for nearly six weeks. He was finally exonerated and released, and from that date until he left Virginia in October, 1609, he was the busiest and most useful of all the colonists in seeking and procuring food from the natives for the colony, and in exploring and discovering the country in accordance with instructions from the Company to find an outlet to the "East India Sea."He was the most central figure in all the important events which transpired in Virginia during his stay.

His history before and after coming to Virginia is interesting and exciting. He was born in Lincolnshire, England, in January, 1579, and was therefore little more than twenty-eight years of age when he reached Virginia. From early youth he was a soldier of fortune, and the most fortunate of men in being granted the assistance of the gentler sex whenever and wherever needed in his greatest perils. In one of his books descriptive of New England and Virginia which he dedicated to the Duchess of Richmond and Lenox, he pays the following beautiful compliment to the "Ladies."

"Yet my comfort is, that heretofore honorable and vertuous Ladies, and comparable but amongst themselves, have offered me rescue and protection in my greatest dangers; even in foreine parts. The beauteous Lady Tragabizanda, when I was a slave to the Turkes did all she could to secure me. When I overcame the Bashaw of Kalbrits in Tartaria, the Charitable Lady Caliamata supplyed me necessities. In the utmost of many extremities, that blessed Pokahontas, the great Dings daughter, of Virginia, oft saved my life. When I escaped the cruelties of Pirates and most furious storms, a long time alone in a small boat at sea., and was driven ashore in France, the good Lady Madam Chanoyes bountifully assisted me."

The most perilous of Captain John Smith's many voyages of discovery through Virginia occurred up the Chickahominy River. On December 10, 1607, Captain John Smith with a crew of nine men went up the Chickahominy River to discover a passage to the South Sea, and to obtain corn for the colony. The explorers proceeded in a barge about ten miles beyond Apocant, an Indian village on the Chickahominy, and finding the river impeded with fallen timber, they returned to Apocant where Smith left seven of the crew with instructions to remain on board the barge and be on guard against surprise by the Indians. He hired two Indian guides, and with two of his crew, Robinson and Emery, went about twenty miles farther up the river. Here he went ashore to shoot some game for food. He left the two whites and one Indian guide in the canoe, and took with him the other Indian guide. The crew of his barge at Apocant disobeyed his command and went ashore where one of them, George Cassen, was captured by Opechancanough, who with three hundred of his men was there on a hunting expedition. They learned from Cassen where Smith had gone, and then put him to death in a most cruel and barbarous manner, after which they went in pursuit of Smith. When Smith left the canoe, Emery and Robinson went ashore, built a fire and went to sleep. Here they were found by Opechancanough and shot to death with arrows. The Indians then followed Smith and his guide through the forest. When Smith discovered the Indians he "bound his Indian guide to his arm for a buckler and received their attack so smartly with his fire arms that he soon laid three dead upon the spot, and so wounded and galled divers others, that none of them cared to approach him"In attempting to return to his canoe "he suddenly slipped up to his middle into an oozy creek. Altho' he was thus hampered, yet none of them durst come near him, till, being almost dead with cold, he threw away his arms and surrendered. Then drawing him out, they carried him to the fire where his men were slain and carefully chafed his benumbed limbs. When Smith recovered from his chill he was conducted to Opechancanough to whom he presented a round ivory double compass dial, and explained its use. In this the Indians were much interested and they were much surprised to see the fly and needle in emotion, and yet they could not touch them because of the glass covering. Yet within an hour after, they tied him to a tree, and drew up in order to shoot him. But Opechancanough holding up the compass in his hand, they all laid down their arms. ¹³

Smith was led about by his captors throughout the several settlements between the James and Potomac rivers before being brought to Powhatan at Werowocomoco in Gloucester County.

Smith has narrated that he was carried "from place to place, and to Topahanocke, a kingdom upon another river (Rappahannock) northward; because the year before a ship had been in the river Pamunke (York), who having been kindly entertained by Powhatan their Emperor they returned thence and discovered the river of Topahanocke (Rappahannock) where being received with like kindness, yet he slew the king, and took of his people, and they supposed I were he, but the people (of Tappahannock) reported him a great (large) man that was Captain, and they using me kindly, the next day (Dec. 28, 1607) we departed" out of Tappahannock.

Thos. Studley, the first Cape Merchant of Virginia, who was at Jamestown when Smith returned wrote: "At last they brought him (Smith) to Werowocomoco where was Powhatan their Emperor. Here more than 200 of those grim Courtiers stood wondering at him, as he had been a monster; till Powhatan and his trayne had put themselves in their greatest traveries. Before a fire upon a seat like a bedstead, he sat covered with a great fur robe of Rarowoun (Raccoon) skinnes, and all the tayles hanging by. On either hand did sit a young wench of 16 or 18 years, and along on each side the house, two rowes of men, and behind them as many women, with their heads and shoulders painted red, and many of their heads bedecked with the white downe of Birds; but every one with something: and a great chayne of white beads about their necks. At his entrance before the Ding, all the people gave a great shout. The Queene of Appamattuck was appointed to bring him water to wash his hands, and another brought him a bunch of feathers, in stead of a Towell to dry them: having seated him after their best barbarous manner they could, a long consultation was held, but the conclusion was, two great stones were brought before Powhatan then as many as could, layd hands on him, dragged him to them, and thereon laid his head, and being ready with their clubs to beate out his braines, Pocahontas the Kings dearest daughter, when no intreaty could prevaile, got his head in her armes, and laid her ovine upon his to save him from death: Whereat the Emperour was contented he should live to make him hatchets, and her bells, beads, and copper; for they thought him as well of all occupations as themselves, for the King himselfe will make his ovine robes, shooes, bowes, arrowes, pots, plant, hunt, or doe anything so well as the rest."

Smith was released and sent to Jamestown with an escort of twelve guides to bring back a grindstone and two great guns (cannon) to Powhatan, in return for which he (Powhatan) promised Smith " the country of Capahowsick, & to love him as his own son, Nantaquasas."

Upon their return to Jamestown "the guides were kindly treated, and Smith showed Rawhunt, the favorite warrior of Powhatan two demiculverins (long slender cannon), and a grindstone, which he told him they were at liberty to take to their master. Having vainly attempted to lift the pieces, Smith discharged them, loaded with stone, against the branches of a tree hung with icicles. The Indians were so terrified at the report, and at the crash of the shattered and faking ice and branches, that they fled. But being assured of their safety, by the messengers despatched after them, they returned, and were sent back with various toys for Powhatan his wives and children."

After Smith's release, his rescuer, Pocahontas, continued to show her friendship for him. She was a frequent visitor to Jamestown, always bringing with her some substantial evidence of friendship. Studley said of her: "Ever once in three or foure dayes, Pocahontas, with her attendants brought him (Smith) so much provision that saved many of their lives, that els for all this had starved with hunger." Upon many occasions she gave Smith warnings of the hostile intents of her father Powhatan, towards the colony, thereby often saving it from destruction.

So long as Smith remained in Virginia, she continued her friendly visits, but upon learning of his departure she never again went there until as a prisoner in the hands of Argall, in 1612. When the latter was trading up the Potomac for corn, he learned from Japazaus, an Indian chief, that Pocahontas was visiting with his tribe. Argall persuaded this chief to entice her aboard the vessel. For this treachery he was rewarded by a copper kettle for himself and some toys for his wife who aided him. The object of her capture was to induce her father to make peace with the colony. She was carried to Jamestown where she was well treated by all. While there she renounced the idolatrous faith of her people, and was baptized into the Episcopal faith and named Rebecca. In 1613 she married John Rolfe, a colonist widower. They resided at Varina on the James fourteen or fifteen miles from Richmond City. Rolfe was the first to plant and cultivate tobacco for export. In 1616 in company with his wife, he sailed in Dale's ship to Plymouth, England, arriving there June 12.

During her visit to England, and especially in London, she was entertained by the King and Queen and the nobility, and much ceremonial attentions were paid her as the daughter of an Emperor, though an Indian.

Her meeting again with Captain John Smith in England was romantic and affecting because she was led to believe he was long since dead. Upon their meeting she was so overcome with surprise that for a long while she could not find utterance for her feelings, but laid her head in her hands and wept. She then indignantly accused the English as " great liars," and told him she had heard he was dead. She was greatly surprised to learn that Smith was not as big a man in England as in Virginia.

Upon the eve of her return to Virginia, she was taken sick, and died, leaving one son, named Thomas Rolfe, who later came to Virginia. His descendants, many of whom distinguished themselves otherwise, proudly claim kinship to his mother, the "Queen of the Wild Woods of America."

Pocahontas was buried at St. George Parish, Gravesend, England, March 21, 1616. Her husband, John Rolfe, again married. He was probably killed in the Indian massacre of 1622.

Captain John Smith subsequently made a voyage to New England, after which he was called "Admiral of New England."He died in England June 21, 1631, and was buried at St. Sepulchre Church, London. His whole life was full of adventure.

CHAPTER VII

The Place of Smith's Rescue

In the previous chapter has been told the story of Smith's rescue by Pocahontas. This event occurred in Gloucester County, upon what is now known as "Rosewell "plantation, the former home of Governor John Page,¹⁴ but now the residence of Judge Fielding L. Taylor.

At the date of Smith's capture, this land was one of the principal places of residence of the Indian Emperor Powhatan, and was called "Werowocomoco."Smith in his book says: "At Werowocomoco, on the north side of the river Pamaunkee (York) was his (Powhatan's) residence when I was delivered him prisoner, some 14 myles from James Towne, where for the most part he was resident."The York was then called Pamaunkee. The historian Stith describes its position as follows:

"Werowocomoco lay on the north side of York River, in Gloucester County, nearly opposite to the mouth of Queens Creek, about twenty-five miles below the fork of the river."The fork of the river referred to is now known as West Point where the Mattaponi and Pamunkey rivers join and form the York River.

Queens Creek is in York County on the south side of the York River. It empties into that river nearly opposite but above the mouth of Carters Creek, Gloucester County, upon this Carters creek is situated Rosewell mansion and lands. Until the marriage of one of the daughters of "King Carter "of Lancaster with one of the Page family, Carters Creek was called Rosewell Creek.

Werowocomoco, now "Rosewell,"is situated upon one of the most lovely of nature's quiet beauty spots to be found in the whole of Tidewater Virginia. Rosewell lawn, and the mansion built upon it, have a most romantic connection with America's early history. The grounds of this lawn are connected with the birth and naming of Pocahontas, the rescue of Captain John Smith, and with later incidents of Smith's meeting with Powhatan, and with Captain Newport's endeavor to crown this great Indian as Emperor.

The mansion has interesting historical value as the home of Governor Page and as the place of frequent visits of Thomas Jefferson.

The lawn is a point of land jutting out into Garters Creek which winds around it and forms a little bay or bight upon its southern end. The surrounding lands, and the waters of Garters Creek mingle so harmoniously as to play hide and seek until they reach the inner shores of "Blundering Point,"at the mouth of this creek, where they become entangled with the waters of "Cedar Bush Creek,"and there the two streams noiselessly empty their clear waters into the beautiful and quiet York River, to flow on, and on until they reach the broad Chesapeake Bay, called by the Indians "Mother of the Waters," distant some fourteen or fifteen miles. Ships pass before the eye on these waters like phantom figures floating in the air. They come and go, and are seen, but no echo reaches these shores to disturb nature's repose.

There is a charm of quietude and rest pervading such places which pen cannot describe. Here are the homes of the wild mocking birds which, with their delightful chants, so pleasing to the ear, will lull to rest the weary when the task is done. The writer, during a visit there in August, 1906, counted seven wild mocking birds at one place within a stone's throw of Rosewell house.

Rosewell mansion is substantially built of brick, three story and basement. The foundation walls are three and one-half feet thick. The reception hall is large, the ceilings lofty, and the whole mansion is indicative of refined taste and wealth. From the upper windows, a magnificent view is had of the surrounding level lands and the waters of the creeks and the York River.

During the life of Governor Page, Thomas Jefferson was a frequent and welcome visitor there. While on one of his visits he wrote the rough draft of the Declaration of Independence in what is now known as the "Blue Room,"situated on the northwest corner of the second story of this house.

In a small grove of trees within sight of the mansion is the family grave yard, containing several grave stones. Upon these stones are chiselled the figures representing "Grief," "Immortality," "Eternity," "Resignation,"etc. Upon one of the stones is chiselled the coat of arms of the Page family and the following words:

"Here lyeth Interred the body of
Mary Page of Hon^ble Matthew
Page Esq one of her Majesteyes Council
of this Collony of Virginia and Daughter
of John and Mary Man of this Colony
who departed this life ye 24th day of
March in ye year of our Lord 1707 in
ye Thirty sixth year of her age.

In the many written accounts of Smith's rescue, reference is always made to the "two great stories "on which his body was laid when Powhatan ordered his execution. At the foot of the lawn of Rosewell mansion; on its Western end are the "two great stones" upon which tradition says Captain John Smith's body was laid preparatory to his attempted execution. Both together would probably weigh nearly a ton. They lie upon the creek shore a few feet from the bank which formerly extended into the creek, but long since caved in and were washed away by the waters of the southerly gust tides which left these stones to be partly covered by the waters at high tides. They are the largest, and the only large stones known to be in this or the surrounding counties where clay, sand, gravel, and very small stones only are found.

On the west side of the lawn is a pretty cove known as "Rescue Cove." It is filled up so much by the debris washed during the centuries from its surrounding banks, that its bed is nearly on a level with the waters of Carters Creek, so that the tide does no longer flow, and ebb through it. It was doubtless a harbor for Powhatan's canoes. At the head of the cove, and upon a line with the mansion is a gushing spring of clear, pure water flowing down this cove until it empties into Carters Creek, a few hundred yards distant. Its flow is strong and at the rate of several hundred gallons an hour, indicating by its force that its origin is far distant in the higher

New River Notes